International (Europe/Japan/Southern Hemisphere) 2024 7-Day European Blitz: Munich->Innsbruck->Dolomites - Advice Appreciated!

[Pumba]

Hello All, welcome to yet another thread on the Dolomites!

First, thank you to all who have posted on the topic @Cheizz and countless others. I've read most of the recent threads which have helped inform the few decisions I've made so far. Also, big shout out to @Tony S for planting the idea in my head last summer. I am copying some of your trip itinerary, friend!

Europe has definitely been on my bucket list for awhile. The vast area and logistics to cover in such a short time are making me a bit nervous, so i would appreciate any tips from the regulars in this area. I am traveling with my partner who is not as enthusiastic about skiing, so this will be a a combo sight-seeing/ski holiday/and eating trip. We plan on 4-5 days of skiing based out of Ortisei.

ITINERARY SO FAR:
• Feb.9, Fri - Red-eye flight NYC to Munich
• Feb.10, Sat - Arrive Munich -> Drive Innsbruck, where we will spend a night (we are renting a car from Munich airport)
• Feb.11, Sun - Drive from Innsbruck to Hotel just outside Ortisei
• Feb.12-16 Mon-Fri AM - Ski!
• Feb.16, PM - Drive back to Munich
• Feb.17, Sat - Fly back Munich -> NYC

Given the short amount of time we'll have to ski the Dolomites, I have a few questions:

• Would it be worth joining a multi-day group tour/lessons to help us understand the lay of the land? I am nervous about wasting a lot of time trying to figure out logistics between regions/resorts.
• Can anyone recommend good guides or schools that do these types of day tours?
• If you only had 4-5 days to ski the Dolomites, what would you recommend as the must-do circuits/runs/regions - given this years low snow?
• We are serious foodies and have half-board with our hotel. Any recommendations for refugios /on-mountain huttes with great lunch food?.... We are also looking for restaurant recommendations in Munich and Innsbruck.

Many Thanks to those who can offer insight!

kara

 

[Cheizz]

Hi Kara,

First, all of Val Gardena is open as we speak (all lifts and runs): https://www.valgardena.it/en/winter-holidays-dolomites/slopes-ski-lifts/open-slopes/

My point: the Dolomites never get a tonne of natural snow. Luckily, they are not so much natural snow-dependent, since groomers are the main feature. And in that respect, they have quite a good winter actually.

With 4-5 days to ski, I would just get out there by myself. The many villages and resorts may seem daunting, but the trail maps are actually quite easy to use. Up on the map is up in reality; down on the map is down in reality.

From Ortisei, I would ski the Seceda sector of Val Gardena (Longia run, the Seceda runs to Santa Cristina). Also, I would drive to Plan Gralba (beyond Selva Val Gardena) early morning and take the first lift up (8.30, normally) to ski via the Green Sella Ronda to Arabba and ski the Marmolada from there. Being early helps beating the crowds.
Alta Badia is also something to consider. Again, Selva is a better place to start than Ortisei (from Ortisei you'll spend half the morning just to ski to Selva). From Selva, take the Orange Sella Ronda (clockwise), have coffee in (or better even: actual hot chocolate) at Las Vegas and have lunch anywhere on the mountain there. You can do the worldcup slope Gran Risa to shake off any after-dinner dip you may encounter.
A trip to Pozza di Fassa (Buffaure-Ciampac) is also recommended.

I would avoid the Sella Ronda as much as possible. You will be visiting at the hight of the European school holiday season, so crowds can be an issue.

 

[Bolder]

^^Since you're in Ortisei, don't miss a day on Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm), the biggest Alpine meadow in Europe. Mellow skiing but stunning views and good foot. Take the cable car up from town and ski back via the recently reopened red piste.

Agree about driving to Plan Gralba, parking is 1 euro an hour or so. The parking lot can get really icy so take care.

If you want to get to Alta Badia, park at the base of Dantercepies (get there early, around 830) and go up and over to Corvara/Colfosco.

You don't need natural snow in the Dolomites but it sure does make things prettier.

 

[Asterino]

What Gigi says. Dolomites on average are very binary, meaning or too much snow or not enough. The last big dump year was the covid year when everything was closed (still 3-4m of snow over 2000m end of May). The advantage of being a dry area is that you get a lot of sunshine, blue sky days, and that artificial snowmaking is a breeze (dry cold air). So they are very good at snow making, between Christmas and end of March you can be sure that about 95% of the pistes will be open. Off piste of course you rely on natural snow.

This year has been ok, not amazing but very ok. See below some pics. All your other questions have been answered by Gigi (spot on). I would add as good destinations La crusc (alta badia side) or Cortina, 5 torri or the Armentarola piste, but maybe that will be too far from Ortisei. Use the sella ronda just to get to the other valleys and ski there, that way you avoid queues.

We got a dump 2 weeks ago. (this is Civetta)



This was last sunday... (other area but close by (Cortina de Croda Negra lift). So enough coverage.



Looking down to Cortina and the Olympia Schuss (there is the Womens downhill WC race next weekend). All beautiful white! Also 2 days ago.



You'll have fun don't worry!

 

[BLiP]

In Munich be sure to check out one of the beer halls. It’s not haute cuisine, obviously, but it’s a great experience, even if a bit touristy. My suggestion is Augustiner Keller. Hofbrauhaus is great for the history, but it’s a bit too touristy for my taste (crowds of people just walking through taking pictures).

 

[skiki]

If you want a traditional Bavarian breakfast/ before noon meal how about grabbing a weisswurst and brezn. I’m not sure where you’ll be staying, but I recommend the Gasthaus Isartor. It’s a cozy place with nice atmosphere, not touristy, and right on the S-bahn. Just make sure you place your order before noon. It’s said that a weisswurst should never hear the afternoon church bells. I don’t see it on their main menu but they usually have a weisswurst and beer special from 10 until noon.

 

[Tony S]

a weisswurst should never hear the afternoon church bells

 

[skiki]

The Ratskeller at Marienplatz also has great atmosphere, but the maze of rooms can be a bit noisy. It gets a mix of locals and tourists. My kids always loved their kase spatzle.

 

[skiki]

It's a fresh veal sausage from Munich and the tradition of only serving it before noon the day it is made is from before refrigeration was standard. It's served with a sweet whole grain mustard. Oh, and you don't eat the casing. As you can see above, it goes well with a weissbier and brezn.

 

[Tony S]

It's a fresh veal sausage from Munich and the tradition of only serving it before noon the day it is made is from before refrigeration was standard. It's served with a sweet whole grain mustard. Oh, and you don't eat the casing. As you can see above, it goes well with a weissbier and brezn.

Want! And the spätzle!

 

[Pumba]

Thank you for all the replies! I have a lot more logistical/navigational questions which I'll address later this evening when I get home from work. Thanks for the tip to avoild the Sella Ronda as a destination in itself. I will view it more as a "circle line" - a means to get to other areas. I know there will be crowds. I like to stay away from them whenever possible.

Thanks for stoking the excitement for the scenery AND food! I knew from the beginning that this would probably turn out to be a food + views tour with a skiing in between.

MUNICH - we haven't booked a place to stay yet. I have pre-emptively booked dinner at this place (https://www.madamchutney.com/) since I suspect we will be schnitzel-ed out by the end of our trip....But we will most definitely stop at a traditional beer hall for some drinks and the atmosphere. I am also considering this Lebanese place: https://www.beirutbeirut.de/

DOLOMITES - since we are on half-board, I have looked at some potential lunch places. Anyone have thoughts/experience with either of these places?

Sofie Hut on the Seceda in the heart of the impressive Dolomites

on the Seceda in the heart of the impressive Dolomites

www.seceda.com

Gostner Schwaige - haute cuisine on the Seiser Alm

Genuine mountain hut cooking in interaction with nature, flower chef extraordinaire Franz Mulser serves delicious menus and fresh dishes.

www.aussergost.com

Any other lunch/viewpoint recs appreciated!

While I would normally be fine to "wing it" on the mountain, I am still considering a tour for some of the days. The maps online don't seem entirely clear and the relative distances between areas are hard for me to gauge, plus it will be our first time skiing in Europe. I am considering these two outfits for tours:

Ski guiding in the Dolomites - skiing with a mountain guide | Alpine School CATORES - Val Gardena / South Tyrol / Dolomites

Mountain Guides Catores | Alpine School. Let's spend a wonderful day together on our beautiful Dolomites mountains.

www.catores.com

Dolomites Explorer

Escursioni giornaliere per sciatori esperti per scoprire le meravigliose piste delle Dolomiti, patrimonio mondiale UNESCO.

ortisei.skischool.shop

Thoughts, experiences?

INNSBRUCK - any must see sights or bars/restuarants? We may take a side trip to the village Hall

DRIVING/ROADS - one thing I forgot to ask is how windy are the roads? I have motion sickness and need to know if I should pack a lot of Dramamine.

Thanks again! I will be back online later.

k

 

[scott43]

Driving all depends on the weather. When I was there it was under a high pressure ridge for two weeks. Nothing but calm winds and blue skies with an occasional dusting of snow. If a foehn blows all bets are off. I found mostly the driving conditions a bit treacherous in the shady mountain bits as they don't seem to use as much salt as we do and it can ice up overnight.

 

[scott43]

Want! And the spätzle!

And hey if it's late? Bratwurst!

 

[skiki]

And hey if it's late? Bratwurst!

Now you have me craving some nurnbergers. And a pile of nice mild German sauerkraut with caraway seeds. I don't get why sauerkraut is always so strong in America.

 

[Pumba]

It's a fresh veal sausage from Munich and the tradition of only serving it before noon the day it is made is from before refrigeration was standard. It's served with a sweet whole grain mustard. Oh, and you don't eat the casing. As you can see above, it goes well with a weissbier and brezn.

I LOVE weisswurst! I had no idea you weren't supposed to eat the casing, oops. And spaetzle, mmmm. I think I know what I'm having for dinner tonight.

​

 

[Pumba]

Also hi @skiki! I will forever remember you for introducing me to the cheese wheel and Tete de Moine at one of the East Coast gatherings awhile back. I own one now, but it's about to split. Poor wood care ;(

 

[skiki]

I LOVE weisswurst! I had no idea you weren't supposed to eat the casing, oops. And spaetzle, mmmm. I think I know what I'm having for dinner tonight.

​

And after you posted the restaurants you are considering for Munich, I grabbed the harissa from the fridge.

 

[SKI-3PO]

Here’s one vote for you to post a detailed report when you return.

 

[Tony S]

. I don't get why sauerkraut is always so strong in America.

It's not.

Morses

www.morsessauerkraut.com

 

[Pumba]

And after you posted the restaurants you are considering for Munich, I grabbed the harissa from the fridge.

Dinner mission accomplished.