Ski Tuning Tools

[graham418]

Just ordered a 'side of the beast' , some diamond stones ,and a toko wc base guide.

 

[Read Blinn]

Just ordered a 'side of the beast' , some diamond stones ,and a toko wc base guide.

Great!

Go easy on base edges, though — finest stone, light touch, maybe just smooth burrs before you wax (prevents iron damage).

 

[oldschoolskier]

Before anyone gets upset, if you are tuning a lot, racing, set only one edge configuration buy a fix set of tools, there are very good recommendations in this thread.

However, the multi-tool http://www.racewax.com/base-side-bevel-file-guide-sks-multi-tool-5-dmt-diamond-stones-with-file/ is a not bad starting point for someone on a budget with multiple configurations to do. Used correctly it actually functions very well. Key word here is starting point. Get hooked you will find you will upgrade to fixed configurations for ease of use.

Just remember it is the skill of the operator and not the tool that give the best edge. The tool can only make it easier. Used poorly any tool can screw up your work just as easily.

 

[eok]

Yes, I have one of those SKS tool kits too. They work fine. I keep mine in my gear bag when I travel. Great insurance (and $$$ saver) if you're on a long multi-day ski quest.

 

[cantunamunch]

Too bad Burton/RED no longer do the Edge Pro Kit. Milled aluminum angle setting, fit any file and a considerable accuracy uptick from the SKS units. Excellent upgrade path and a decent all-round side edge guide. HEY BURTON!

Shown above is the old RED unit, from around 2001. The SKS/FK unit to its left is from around 2008 and very much worn out - the angle adjustment screw is completely warped/inaccurate. I only keep it around for quick rust takedown. The newer Burton Edge Pro kits are black with polished metal.

The cutting angle adjustment on the Burton/RED units is absolutely brilliant - easy to adjust and robust enough that hundreds of millions of people use it to keep their bike saddles in place every day.

BRING THEM BACK! (Yes I have ebay alerts, yes I hoard them and no I'm not letting any go).

 

[eok]

... The SKS/FK unit to its left is from around 2008 and very much worn out - the angle adjustment screw is completely warped/inaccurate. I only keep it around for quick rust takedown.

My biggest concern for the SKS tool design is simply that it is made of plastic - and it's not exactly the most durable type of plastic. Nylon or Lexan would have been better. Ideally, cast & machined aluminium (with steel/brass screws) would be best but that would surely drive the cost way up. Anyway, the SKS design's accuracy is just to susceptible to wear. That's why I only use it infrequently and really only when travelling.

 

[cantunamunch]

Ideally, cast & machined aluminium (with steel/brass screws) would be best but that would surely drive the cost way up.

This is why I really liked the Burton/Red units - all the reliability of SVST, use any tool you want, no faffing about with extra shims, at a price not even 2x of the plastic units. If Burton took a bath on these - well I'll take more of them thank you.

I quit using the FK/SKS for side edge jobs when I realised that , at the screw detent, the unit was overbeveling. I really didn't like the idea of taking more material off when home just to return things to nominal - so it now gets the occasional "take 10 years of shed rust off these Metrons" job and that's it.

 

[Dwight]

View attachment 21248

Too bad Burton/RED no longer do the Edge Pro Kit. Milled aluminum angle setting, fit any file and a considerable accuracy uptick from the SKS units. Excellent upgrade path and a decent all-round side edge guide. HEY BURTON!

Shown above is the old RED unit, from around 2001. The SKS/FK unit to its left is from around 2008 and very much worn out - the angle adjustment screw is completely warped/inaccurate. I only keep it around for quick rust takedown. The newer Burton Edge Pro kits are black with polished metal.

The cutting angle adjustment on the Burton/RED units is absolutely brilliant - easy to adjust and robust enough that hundreds of millions of people use it to keep their bike saddles in place every day.

BRING THEM BACK! (Yes I have ebay alerts, yes I hoard them and no I'm not letting any go).

I use this one at the local shop, works nicely.

 

[jmills115]

Great!

Go easy on base edges, though — finest stone, light touch, maybe just smooth burrs before you wax (prevents iron damage).

I'm just starting to set myself up for tuning as well. Already have a vise and iron and am already wondering if I need files or if stones will work to set and maintain? 200,400, and 600 to start? If I do decide to set base edge I have seen prices all over comparing SVST final cut to the base beast. If ease of use and less chance of damage is there that big of a difference in these two tools?

 

[Read Blinn]

I'm just starting to set myself up for tuning as well. Already have a vise and iron and am already wondering if I need files or if stones will work to set and maintain? 200,400, and 600 to start?

If your edges are already sharp, stones will maintain them (and that's a nice coarseness range). If not, files are useful. They're also necessary when changing bevel angles -- from 2° to 3°, for instance. Stones, even aggressive ones, aren't efficient for taking off loads of material.

 

[Sibhusky]

Do yourself a favor as you're just starting out. Have the shop set your requested bevels, and just maintain the SIDE edge. Preferably never touch the base edge unless there's a ding. That's right, don't touch it. Because you'll over bevel it even with stones over time and then you'll have to stone grind the bases, losing P-tex, to get back to where you were.

 

[Read Blinn]

Do yourself a favor as you're just starting out. Have the shop set your requested bevels, and just maintain the SIDE edge. Preferably never touch the base edge unless there's a ding. That's right, don't touch it. Because you'll over bevel it even with stones over time and then you'll have to stone grind the bases, losing P-tex, to get back to where you were.

This is totally right, especially the part about base edges. After you're comfortable with side-edge maintenance (using stones), you can attempt to change side-edge angles using a file — experiment on your rock skis first.

Like Sib, I avoid base edges. The shop does those, with a base grind (a rare event), and I choose the shop carefully.

People do tune their own bases bevels. People also work on their own bases. But that's not a thing for beginners — not with your good skis, anyway.

 

[jmills115]

there's a ding. That's right, don't touch it. Because you'll over bevel it even with stones over time and then you'll have to stone grind the bases, losing P-tex, to get back to where you were.

This is totally right, especially the part about base edges. After you're comfortable with side-edge maintenance (using stones), you can attempt to change side-edge angles using a file — experiment on your rock skis first.

Like Sib, I avoid base edges. The shop does those, with a base grind (a rare event), and I choose the shop carefully.

People do tune their own bases bevels. People also work on their own bases. But that's not a thing for beginners — not with your good skis, anyway.

Thank you both for the advice. I plan on attending a tuning class once they get going locally.

 

[PTskier]

Just a touch on the base edge to remove any raised dings. Leave any divots there for the next shop tune. Also cut flat any raised base plastic bits. I use the heavy rubber bands off a bunch of broccoli or asparagus to hold the brakes up. Most files are too soft to do the job on the steel edges, especially the raised burrs that are work hardened. A stone or diamond file will cut these down. Ski tuning files do a good job, but it's easy to cut away a lot of steel, and that's part of the life of the ski.

For the side edges, run a felt tip pen along the edge. Sharpen just enough to remove the ink along the whole length. If the edge scrapes off a bit of your thumbnail, it's sharp. I use a coarse and a medium diamond file, then finish with a fine stone, all in the guide. Light to medium touch. A heavy hand will knock out the diamond bits. I like a 3° side and a 0.7° base--and I live in the west. Buy the guides for the angles that give you the feeling you like in your skis. Sharpen all the way to where the tip curves up away from the snow. Don't sharpen the curved edge. Tognar.com has a good catalog of tuning tools and other parts you can use as a reference.

I like Hertel Super Hot Sauce universal wax. Have the iron hot enough to melt the wax without smoking, hold the wax bar against the iron base, dribble as little wax as possible on the base that'll allow you to spread with the iron for full coverage. Keep the iron moving, never stop, don't damage the base with too much heat. Spread the wax. Now...scrape & brush...or, just remelt and wipe the molten excess off with a paper towel. You'll be a few hundredths of a second slower out of the starting gate using the paper towels, but it sure is neat & easy.

 

[pais alto]

I would just add to @PTskier 's post that @SlideWright has a great selection of tuning tools on his website slidewright.com, and he is a helpful and valued Pugski.com member, well worth supporting.

 

[Read Blinn]

I like a 3° side and a 0.7° base--and I live in the west.

This guy's a beast among western skiers — that's an east coast tune.

Like the paper towel idea, too.

 

[Frankly]

Like retouching, less is more. At the very basic level you want smooth edges you can run your fingernail along without catching. Think of how the ski moves through the snow and how, especially on hard snow or ice, everything is riding on that edge. So you want a smooth transition from from the tip into the working edge and out again the tail. Simply polishing what you have will give you the biggest improvement unless you were skiing on horrible beater edges.

Then think about tuning when you're skiing.... Would you start your turns better if the tip grabbed earlier? Or are you hooking and needing to stay back on your skis because you don't want them hooking up and diving into a turn ahead of time.... stuff like that. Are the skis grabby or smooth? (Of course this could also extend to boots and balance and other issues, that's what makes it debatable and complicated.)

And when you get all done, yes it is super nice to do them all 1 degree base and 2-3 degree side (harder snow, more angle). Have a good ski shop set the angles for you and don't use files unless you have to, good diamond stones are really all you should need unless you're a backcountry rock skier.

Also you wax that lasts all day, not just for one race run. So look for how to do a good recreational tune.

 

[Wilhelmson]

My skis come out pretty good with only a medium diamond stone (swix white). If you have the time and money the progression of stones would be a nice touch. You'll need an angle guide for the stone. The multi angle tools are ok and the specific angle tools are better.

For wax you'll need a plastic scraper, iron, and nylon brush.

You'll also need ski vices or some sort of homemade setup to hold the skis while you work on them.

Happy tuning.

 

[jmills115]

My skis come out pretty good with only a medium diamond stone (swix white). If you have the time and money the progression of stones would be a nice touch. You'll need an angle guide for the stone. The multi angle tools are ok and the specific angle tools are better.

For wax you'll need a plastic scraper, iron, and nylon brush.

You'll also need ski vices or some sort of homemade setup to hold the skis while you work on them.

Happy tuning.

I'm set with a vise, iron, scrapers, and a universal wax. Will grab either the SVST stainless or the KUU. I like the price of KUU stones with the exchange rate and may go that route.

 

[L&AirC]

Plenty of info on where to start. I will just add that when you go to purchase a tool, though it might be painful, buy quality tools or be prepared to buy them again.

When I first started tuning I was horrified at the prices. I wanted to tune to save money but the price of the tools was ridiculous. First time around I went cheap and made some myself; wood tuning vise (more of a ski holder than vise), used BBQ grill brush for a brass brush (actually worked pretty good) etc. Then I finally bought inexpensive tools. All of those have now been replaced with tools of better quality than I need, but I'll never need to replace them as long as I don't loose them (except for scrapers of course).

I do strongly suggest you wait for sales. This helps take some of the sting out.

Have fun

Ken