Wintersteiger Jupiter Ski tune Great experience and I learned a lot.

[Johnems]

I have wanting to get my new skies tuned and I wanted a high-quality tune. I want to thank all of you who on the form who have helped me on this journey.

1) After reading a lot on this form about grinding skies and there is high phrase for Wintersteiger Jupite. Finding a place that has a Wintersteiger Jupiter became a whole lot easier with the list on the company's web page. I was lucky enough to find one in at Hunter NY at The Ski Pro and Ride https://theproskiandride.com/. It worked out well in that I was attending a PSIA event a Hunter. This is about 3 hours form where I live so I do not have Jupiter near me.

2) The Manager Gio Holmquist and his Tuning guy TJ were excellent. It was great to find people who know the machine and did not over sell or over promises on its capabilities of the machine. TJ shared a new way to me on how to check the flatness of a ski. Put a true bar on the base of ski and instead of using a bright light to look for convex or concave why not uses a feeler gauge. He uses a .001-inch feeler gauge and held the true bar on the base and then gently pushed the feeler gauge up against the bar. If it does not go under the bar, then the ski is flat. I find it a lot less subjective than the light method.

3) My original plan was to have them grind my brand-new skis in that I had them do the boot and binding mounting. TJ talked me out of doing a grind on a new set of skis in that for him you need to use them to break them in and then grind them. He feels that a new ski needs to be flexed and skied on to allow it to break in and will be more stable in terms of construction. This just make sense to me. I have a set of Sockli GS and they were flat.

4) I came back after skiing my event and got to watch the machine do it magic. It is impressive to say the least. I wanted to do the Variable V-Edge tuning technology but maintaining that in that when I do not have a machine close to me to did not make sense. So, I had them a .7-degree base and 3-degree side without the Variable edge. They are very sharp edges that have taken a good preforming ski and make it great ice skate.

5) I got to see them rehab a ski base/edge and bring it back to new looking. (In the East we are not having a good snow year and they tell me they are getting a lot of beat-up skies this year.) It took a number of passes, but it was impressive.

Thanks for all of you on this form who helped me on this journey to get me great tune on a good pair of skies.

Thanks John

 

[pchewn]

Very cool, glad you got to see the machine in action.

I disagree with "TJ" about point 3) above.
I don't believe that you need to "use them and break them in" before doing a proper base grind and tune.
This just doesn't make sense that the shape of the ski or the properties of the materials will change after the initial use.

 

[trailtrimmer]

Very cool, glad you got to see the machine in action.

I disagree with "TJ" about point 3) above.
I don't believe that you need to "use them and break them in" before doing a proper base grind and tune.
This just doesn't make sense that the shape of the ski or the properties of the materials will change after the initial use.

I can see where he is coming from, flexing and working a ski does indeed have an impact on it's flex and lifespan. There is no reason to think it can't impact on the flatness of the base. As long as we are using wood cores, we are at the mercy of the grain of the tree and it's imperfections.

The only argument to be made is not if it changes, but how much and if it's worth waiting to base grind it.

 

[Henry]

I've had new skis that looked concave when shining a light under the true bar when actually the light was coming through the grooves in the structure. The skis were flat but didn't ski well due to that structure. Grinding and putting on a better structure was the fix for these new skis. Not sure about a break-in...but if the new skis need a fix at first, I'd certainly get them fixed promptly.

 

[ScottB]

I know SKIMD will tune a new ski without any objections. He does say heat will distort base plastic and says don't hot wax them anymore. He also sells a non-hot wax tool, so a bit self serving. I do know heat expands plastics a lot by experience, but I assume cooling returns them to their original shape. Flexing will break some bonds in the layup of the ski, so theoretically it could change the base somewhat. I am skeptical about the don't grind new ski advice, and if your a believer, hand flex the ski a lot before giving it him and it will accomplish the same thing. Very hard thing to prove one way or the other unless you have a very precise way to measure it.

 

[dbostedo]

He does say heat will distort base plastic and says don't hot wax them anymore.

Maybe I'm not understanding. That sounds like they are saying to never hot wax any ski ever?

 

[Kahuna]

Maybe I'm not understanding. That sounds like they are saying to never hot wax any ski ever?

Yes, that is his approach. Wax wizard (pro-glide) and paste wax is what he recommended to me. I got scolded for taking my skis in for a tune with a coat of Summer/unscraped hot wax.

 

[Johnems]

I have wanting to get my new skies tuned and I wanted a high-quality tune. I want to thank all of you who on the form who have helped me on this journey.

1) After reading a lot on this form about grinding skies and there is high phrase for Wintersteiger Jupite. Finding a place that has a Wintersteiger Jupiter became a whole lot easier with the list on the company's web page. I was lucky enough to find one in at Hunter NY at The Ski Pro and Ride https://theproskiandride.com/. It worked out well in that I was attending a PSIA event a Hunter. This is about 3 hours form where I live so I do not have Jupiter near me.

2) The Manager Gio Holmquist and his Tuning guy TJ were excellent. It was great to find people who know the machine and did not over sell or over promises on its capabilities of the machine. TJ shared a new way to me on how to check the flatness of a ski. Put a true bar on the base of ski and instead of using a bright light to look for convex or concave why not uses a feeler gauge. He uses a .001-inch feeler gauge and held the true bar on the base and then gently pushed the feeler gauge up against the bar. If it does not go under the bar, then the ski is flat. I find it a lot less subjective than the light method.

3) My original plan was to have them grind my brand-new skis in that I had them do the boot and binding mounting. TJ talked me out of doing a grind on a new set of skis in that for him you need to use them to break them in and then grind them. He feels that a new ski needs to be flexed and skied on to allow it to break in and will be more stable in terms of construction. This just make sense to me. I have a set of Sockli GS and they were flat.

4) I came back after skiing my event and got to watch the machine do it magic. It is impressive to say the least. I wanted to do the Variable V-Edge tuning technology but maintaining that in that when I do not have a machine close to me to did not make sense. So, I had them a .7-degree base and 3-degree side without the Variable edge. They are very sharp edges that have taken a good preforming ski and make it great ice skate.

5) I got to see them rehab a ski base/edge and bring it back to new looking. (In the East we are not having a good snow year and they tell me they are getting a lot of beat-up skies this year.) It took a number of passes, but it was impressive.

Thanks for all of you on this form who helped me on this journey to get me great tune on a good pair of skies.

Thanks John

Thanks for all the comments. If I had thought about it I wish I had put a true bar and done the feeler gauge trick before he re ground the ski to see if there was a noticeable change in the flatness. Thanks John

 

[anders_nor]

a lot of skis are pulled fast out of the mold, and have shitty grinds