International (Europe/Japan/Southern Hemisphere) Skiing near Milan?

[Nola Mike]

Planning a ski vacation next month with the fam. I was planning on doing the Dolomiti Superski areas, flying into either Bologna or Milan. Looking at the drive, wondering if it might make sense to do some of the places closer to Milan instead. Never skiied in Europe, I'd love to find an old school type of experience. I don't need the terrain to be too crazy, but can certainly handle anything on piste. I don't necessarily need a huge place (we'll be skiing 5 days), don't love a ton of crowds. Prefer simple local food. Simple accomodations (though need a hot tub/sauna). Currently booked near Panchia in the Dolomites...

 

[Rod9301]

Alagna, great little town, quiet, great ambiance

 

[Nola Mike]

Alagna, great little town, quiet, great ambiance

Hmm, that came up. Lodging seems a bit tight ATM...

 

[Swiss Toni]

It will take you about half as long to drive from Milan Malpensa airport to one of the resorts in the Aosta Valley region than it will to Panchia. There is a list of resorts on the official Aosta Valley tourism website: https://www.lovevda.it/en/sport/downhill-skiing

Alagna is a very nice village, but at 1212m it’s quite low and there aren’t very many groomed runs in that sector of the Monterosa ski area. As you are with your family Champoluc would be a better option.

It’s mandatory to have winter tires fitted to your car or to carry snow chains in the Aosta Valley region and the Trentino Alto–Adige region during the winter months https://www.neveitalia.it/turismo/news/obbligo-di-catene-a-bordo-o-pneumatici-invernali-ordinanze The car rental companies at the airports don’t normally fit winter tires or supply snow chains as standard, so you will probably have to order them in advance as an extra.

If you don’t have an EU driver’s license you need to get an International Driving Permit https://it.usembassy.gov/u-s-citize...urces-of-u-s-citizens/transportation-driving/ if you get stopped by law enforcement and you haven’t got one you could be fined €80 to €317.

 

[James]

Not exactly a travelogue, but Rocco Schiavone: Ice Cold Murders was filmed for much of it in Aosta. He’s basically a questionable cop sent to the stix. Or he fled there, can’t remember. The first episode is set at a ski place.
You can get it on amazon prime with a pbs masterpiece subscription, or direct from pbs.

Rocco Schiavone: Ice Cold Murders | Black Slope (Part 1) | Season 1 | Episode 1 | PBS

Recent transfer Rocco Schiavone finds himself dealing with a dramatic murder case.

www.pbs.org

 

[Nola Mike]

It will take you about half as long to drive from Milan Malpensa airport to one of the resorts in the Aosta Valley region than it will to Panchia. There is a list of resorts on the official Aosta Valley tourism website: https://www.lovevda.it/en/sport/downhill-skiing

Alagna is a very nice village, but at 1212m it’s quite low and there aren’t very many groomed runs in that sector of the Monterosa ski area. As you are with your family Champoluc would be a better option.

It’s mandatory to have winter tires fitted to your car or to carry snow chains in the Aosta Valley region and the Trentino Alto–Adige region during the winter months https://www.neveitalia.it/turismo/news/obbligo-di-catene-a-bordo-o-pneumatici-invernali-ordinanze The car rental companies at the airports don’t normally fit winter tires or supply snow chains as standard, so you will probably have to order them in advance as an extra.

If you don’t have an EU driver’s license you need to get an International Driving Permit https://it.usembassy.gov/u-s-citize...urces-of-u-s-citizens/transportation-driving/ if you get stopped by law enforcement and you haven’t got one you could be fined €80 to €317.

Wow, great info. That seems like a pain with the car--didn't know about the intl license, I've driven in europe and italy numerous times without one. I actually had settled on champoluc and reserved a (refundable) place in antagnod, which looked similar? As mentioned, the other option is to fly into bologna and stay in panchia. Right now the bologna flights look a little better. I may sit on it a few days and look into the car rental out of milan. Any other milan options? I do like the idea of going to the (maybe?) less touristy areas rather than the dolomites, though it all looks like fun. (meanwhile, my local hill is getting freezing rain

Edit: Looks like most of the car rentals include chains
Edit 2: More interesting info "Tourists may also use their valid American driver’s license if accompanied by an official translation in Italian."

 

[Swiss Toni]

Renting cars in Italy in winter can be a pain, but it’s often the only practical way to get from the airports to the ski resorts. Many people don’t know that an IDP is required, it will only be an issue if the rental company checks or if you get stopped for a traffic violation. As IDPs can only be obtained outside of Italy, you might not be allowed to drive further. I am aware that you can also use an official translation, but where are you going to get one from? I think an IDP only costs £20, an official translation will likely cost you much more, if you could get one. If chains are included make sure that they are in the trunk before you set off and that they are the right size.

Bizarrely Italy has a law that covers skiing, it might be an idea to check that out as well https://www.trentino.com/en/leisure-activities/winter-sports/slope-rules-in-south-tyrol/

I would also consider the snow conditions. I think the Dolomites have received less snow than the Aosta Valley resorts so far this season. Antagnod looks similar to Alagna, because they are both Walser villages, they were originally settled by people from the German speaking part of Canton Valais in the 13th century, it was warmer then so they were able to drive their cattle over the high alpine passes as they were ice free. The skiing there is pretty limited, it only has 4 runs https://monterosaski.eu/in-tempo-reale/skirama/antagnod it’s a good place to go when the weather’s bad as you can ski in the trees, fortunately, it’s only 2km to Champoluc.

The Via Lattea (italian for Milky Way) ski area https://www.vialattea.it/en/ is around 2.5 hrs from Milan airport by car, unfortunately it doesn’t have very much snow at the moment. Any resort of any size will be touristy, they were built to attract tourists. The idea was to stop depopulation, if you want to visit somewhere that is not touristy you would have to go to a valley that doesn't have any ski lifts.

 

[Asterino]

I would say Monte Rosa area if you want to stay "closer" to Milan. It consists of 3 connected valleys. Champoluc is the best beginner/Family friendly area, Alagna is a bit quiet and has amazing off piste/free ride options (and one of the longest valley descends I have ever skied (10km+)).

I wouldn't however disregard Dolomiti Superski (or the more westerly Dolomiti Brenta/Val di Sole) area. We've just had a massive dump over the last weekend, and while I love the monte rosa ski area (been there 3x), there is something special about the dolomites. To Monte Rosa is about 2 hours, to Madonna di Campiglio 3:30, to the dolomiti superski area 4h.

All what has been written above is very valid.

 

[Ski Smurf]

Another thought - if it is a rare trip, why not go to the Matterhorn - Cervinia is just a 2h drive from Milan. While living in Italy and enjyoing Italian food, you can cross over Matterhorn to ski down to Zermatt.



Except for the past days, the last months have been very warm in most of Europe, so there is not much snow at lower levels, and going up in elevation helps.

In terms of avoiding crowds - many European countries have skiing holidays in February - so this is typically a very busy period.

 

[James]

Have a look at the Dutch data on Eiro school holidays. There’s only so much you can do. Hope for lots of terrain open. Last year was not so good till very late.

Like they do every year, the Dutch Ski Federation have compiled all information on school holidays of European countries, data on skiers per country/region that actually go skiing and made this great insight in what week to go or avoid next season.

Here's the article (Dutch): https://www.wintersport.nl/weblog/14/02/2023/drukke-weken-wintersportseizoen-20232024

To understand the chart:
Dui = Germany
Oo = Austria

The rest is self-explanatory I think.

Keep in mind that the French, Austrians, and Italians hardly ever go beyond their country's borders to ski. The Germans stay in German-speaking countries and regions (Austria, Eastern Switzerland). Most Brits end up in France.

 

[Nola Mike]

Thanks for all the tips. Unfortunately, it appears that the lodging is in short supply. Didn't realize it would be so tight. My wife doesn't ski, so enjoying the villages will be more important to her. Bruil-cervinia and valtournenche don't have much available currently. So it would appear that I'm down to Antagnod vs. Panchia. It looks easy to access champoluc from antagnod, though neither place looks particularly challenging? My kids are 11 and 13; one is very competent (she can handle any groomer, and has skiied tougher) and the other one somehow got better than me last year I don't do too much crazy stuff anymore, but would certainly prefer blacks.
As far as getting there/back, Milan has slightly better flights and is slightly closer to Antagnod (2 hrs) than Bologna to panchia (3 hrs), but probably not enough difference alone to choose one over another. Forcasting snow 5 weeks in advance probably isn't something that I want to attempt...

 

[Swiss Toni]

This year the Italian school holidays aren’t until the first week in March, February is always busy, simply because skiing conditions are at their best then. There aren’t very many challenging runs in Italian ski resorts. The challenging skiing in the Monterosa ski area is off piste, it markets itself as a freeride paradise https://monterosaski.eu/en/experiences/are-you-ready-next-level-20967

As your wife doesn’t ski you could say in Aosta and get the gondola up to Pila https://pila.it/en/ Aosta is a Roman town, there will be lots for you wife to do and see there https://www.aostainfo.it/en/

 

[Bolder]

Planning a ski vacation next month with the fam. I was planning on doing the Dolomiti Superski areas, flying into either Bologna or Milan. Looking at the drive, wondering if it might make sense to do some of the places closer to Milan instead. Never skiied in Europe, I'd love to find an old school type of experience. I don't need the terrain to be too crazy, but can certainly handle anything on piste. I don't necessarily need a huge place (we'll be skiing 5 days), don't love a ton of crowds. Prefer simple local food. Simple accomodations (though need a hot tub/sauna). Currently booked near Panchia in the Dolomites...

Can I try to allay your fears about driving to the Superski area from Malpensa? @Nola Mike

We have done that drive about 6 times now (to Val Gardena), and it's really not bad at all. To Panchia, you're on big highways until the last 15 miles or so. What we have always done, assuming an early/mid-morning departure from Malpensa, is stop in Verona for lunch (pizza! here: https://www.pizzeriadasalvatorevr.com/)
and a good double espresso. Get out, stretch legs with a stroll along river in a beautiful medieval town.

Then it's only a couple of hours to the Dolomites. One thing about Malpensa is it's really easy to get to the rental car areas -- just turn left when you leave the arrivals terminal, cross the road and go downstairs, hertz etc are on your left. It's a couple of roundabouts then you're on the highway. I htink you can get an IDL from AAA for not much money.

Otherwise, just stop at a supermarket and grab some bread/cheese etc and munch in the car.

You will probably get chains and diesel additive for cold weather. Maybe not snow tires but we've never needed them on the drive up to the Dolomites. But to me the Dolomites are the most spectacular ski area in Europe and not to be missed.

You will have GREAT on-piste snow, nobody grooms better than the Superski area and you won't have huge crowds (except maybe at a couple of feeder lifts).

 

[Nola Mike]

Man, this is so tough! I just bought place tickets to mxp, since the flight times were better (we land at 11 instead of 1400), and the return only has 1 connection instead of 2. I've decided that my wife's happiness is more important than my skiing (hopefully if she enjoys it we can return), so I'm now looking for a walkable village that has something for her to do during the day, but still small. Monte Rosa still looks fun, cervinia looks great but there's nothing available in town, and not sure where else we'd stay. I'd be ok driving 30 minutes or so to the lifts, though I'd prefer a shuttle.

 

[Itinerant skier]

Just take the train. The entire Dolomites region and beyond is easily accessed from Milan by train/shuttle/ direct bus. There are buses from Milan right to Cortina and other ski destinations with nice walkable villages. Closer areas to Milan offer train/ticket combos. I never rent a car for Skiing in Europe.

 

[James]

There are buses from Milan right to Cortina

That sounds like the ticket for the wife’s shopping.

 

[BMC]

I’ve caught a bus from Courmayeur to central Milan (the major train station) so I’m sure there’d be a bus going the other way. Maybe 2 hours? 3 tops? (It was 2005 or so, so a while ago). That’s where I’d go. There or Alagna

 

[Bolder]

Man, this is so tough! I just bought place tickets to mxp, since the flight times were better (we land at 11 instead of 1400), and the return only has 1 connection instead of 2. I've decided that my wife's happiness is more important than my skiing (hopefully if she enjoys it we can return), so I'm now looking for a walkable village that has something for her to do during the day, but still small. Monte Rosa still looks fun, cervinia looks great but there's nothing available in town, and not sure where else we'd stay. I'd be ok driving 30 minutes or so to the lifts, though I'd prefer a shuttle.

Anything in Val Gardena would totally suit both you and your wife's needs. Selva and Ortisei are both historic and pretty interesting ski towns, especially Ortisei. You can take a bus/taxi up and down the valley, too, so you don't have to drive to ski. There may not be too much lodging choice at this point, though. "Something for her to do during the day..." my wife does not ski (just a bit of XC) but she has always found ways to entertain herself in Val Gardena, including shopping, meeting us for lunch, hiking/snowshoeing, people-watching etc.

 

[Nola Mike]

Ok, still working on this...
I still have the place in antagnod, which looks like the best viable option for me at this point. I'd like to get in on sunday with enough daylight to get my bearings, and also not have to leave crazy early to make the flight home. The place in antagnod seems to check all the boxes for my wife, so good there. I'm a bit concerned about the skiing in champoluc though. How hard is it to get to other areas in monterosa if I want some more challenging terrain? I keep reading about beginner/intermediate/family, which makes me a bit concerned that I won't be able to find anything decently steep. I'm also still looking at aosta/pila, but haven't come across as good lodging choices.

 

[James]

Blind leading the blind-
Looks like if you can ski from Frachey up valley to Staffal you can make it to Alagna. But you probably want a guide, esp off piste in Alagna.

I’m amazed how close all that is to Martigny or Sembrancher Switzerland. But looks like a car is necessary, and winter?