International (Europe/Japan/Southern Hemisphere) Japan advice..

[Vinnie]

I want to plan a trip to ski Japan next season, probably Hakuba or Myoko. I don’t have touring equipment so would be doing all lift-served skiing. From searching around it seems that to get the legendary powder one has to head out to the backcountry. Any advice on what the real deal is? Thanks.

 

[laine]

I'm going to tack on this to this thread - we're thinking of going to Niseko and Tokyo next Christmas. We will primarily be doing lift-served skiing.

Any advice on where to ski, stay, and eat in either location would be welcome.

thanks!

 

[PhillyGuy]

I just got back from Niseko. There was somewhat of a try spell when I was there, but even without fresh snow, the snow was already way better than anywhere else I've skied.

There are 4 resorts in Niseko, all are connected at the top. However, these are single or double chairs and close frequently due to high wind or low visibility. When that happens, you can still hike from Niseko Village to/from Hirafu, but you can not go to Annapuri. Keep that in mind when you decide where to stay or start your day.

I think Grand Hirafu and Honozono have the better snow and overall better skiing. Hirafu is bigger with multiple lifts and easily connected to Honozono. Since there wasn't much fresh snow, I stayed in trees and there are lots of good options.

There are some really fun but relatively open and not too steep tree runs if you are into those. I would recommend the glades to the lookers left of the King #3, right of Swinging Monkey, at the bottom of Hanazono #3 (prob the easiest), and small islands of trees to the left of Ace #2.

If you are into more advanced tree skiing, there's good tree skiing, there's a big glade to the right of Hirafu gondola (it's huge, there are multiple entrances/gates to access), and glades just below the Honozono #3 from top to the bottom of the lift.

Strawberry Fields and Blueberry Fields are popular glades, but they can get busy, esp on a power day.

You should also explore side country skiing in Niseko. I had never gone out of resort gates in the US, but tried gate #5 and it was a lot of fun. Prob the easiest way to experience some "back country skiing."

 

[laine]

I just got back from Niseko. There was somewhat of a try spell when I was there, but even without fresh snow, the snow was already way better than anywhere else I've skied.

There are 4 resorts in Niseko, all are connected at the top. However, these are single or double chairs and close frequently due to high wind or low visibility. When that happens, you can still hike from Niseko Village to/from Hirafu, but you can not go to Annapuri. Keep that in mind when you decide where to stay or start your day.

I think Grand Hirafu and Honozono have the better snow and overall better skiing. Hirafu is bigger with multiple lifts and easily connected to Honozono. Since there wasn't much fresh snow, I stayed in trees and there are lots of good options.

There are some really fun but relatively open and not too steep tree runs if you are into those. I would recommend the glades to the lookers left of the King #3, right of Swinging Monkey, at the bottom of Hanazono #3 (prob the easiest), and small islands of trees to the left of Ace #2.

If you are into more advanced tree skiing, there's good tree skiing, there's a big glade to the right of Hirafu gondola (it's huge, there are multiple entrances/gates to access), and glades just below the Honozono #3 from top to the bottom of the lift.

Strawberry Fields and Blueberry Fields are popular glades, but they can get busy, esp on a power day.

You should also explore side country skiing in Niseko. I had never gone out of resort gates in the US, but tried gate #5 and it was a lot of fun. Prob the easiest way to experience some "back country skiing."

Thanks @PhillyGuy! Two primary questions at this point -
1) hotel recommendations?
2) how early did you book the hotel?

 

[karlo]

Hakuba or Myoko

Have a look at my recent trip report on Nagano and Niigata. Some additional info.

When to go: I've always had good snow end of January in last five years. In 2016, I was there mid-Jan and encountered heavy rain crust on the southern aspect (bad creme brulee with too thick of a sugar later). Other aspects were great.

AVOID Chinese New Year, the entire week. Next year, that's Feb 5. So, perhaps last week of January. That keeps one in the heart of the mid-Jan to mid-Feb window, and out of the Chinese holiday

Where to Stay: I've always stayed at Shirouma-so, an up-to-date ryokan with its own onsen, in Happo Village. A short walk to Happo-one gondy, and, if you know the short cut, to Wadano Base. But, real close to the Happo bus terminal, making it easy to schlep both gear and bags. But, there are lots of great places to stay, including at Wadano, where Evergreen Backcountry is, also known as Evergreen Outdoor Center, a guiding operation that offers both off-piste (Sidecountry) and backcountry tours.

At Myoko, I stayed at a foreign owned and operated lodge named Morino Lodge. Careful, there is more than one, one being at Hakuba. When I return, I will stay at a ryokan, but this one has no ensuite baths, only guest-onsens, and no western beds.

HAKUBA SKIING

Resort and Sidecountry: Great skiing can be had on-resort. Happo-one has so much terrain relative to numbers of skiers, on a weekday, that one can have a great powder day in-resort for much of the day, and then the next day. I love Cortina for an in-resort powder day. Great tree skiing in-resort and sidecountry.

When things get tougher, one can find great snow in the lift accessed (not "served") Sidecountry. Resorts have become far more liberal about resort skiers going into the non-patrolled sidecountry. I think it is Tsugaike that mandates one attend its intro and safety session before one can enter. Regardless of where, one had better go with ski partners who know how to use their beacon shovel and probe. One had better go with a guide, or a friend who knows the territory, or you could end up in terrain traps, or further into the backcountry where a long boot pack may be necessary, shorter if one knows the way. What I like is that, at a place like Cortina, the Sidecountry can be the opposite aspect from the resort, in the trees. Great place to find lighter and less tracked powder.

Backcountry: Amazing BC skiing. The valley has huge amounts of terrain. However, some of the more easily accessed get tracked up in a few days, as many foreigners can access, online, routes others have posted. But, tracked up is relative. The powder is still amazing and, relative to a resort, not tracked much. The issue may be more about the tracked up hike up. Two of my best BC experiences were those for which we, with a guide, placed a vehicle at end of day destination, amidst farmland. Most foreigners are not going to have that facility, and would not know where to park.

MYOKO SKIING

See my trip report, as that is my only experience at Myoko, having only skied at Hakuba until this year, and only at Akakura Kanko. There, Sidecountry appears to me to be on the same aspect as the resort. The other side, one has a long climb.

Skiing in Japan is a great experience and very worthwhile doing, over and over again.

 

[PhillyGuy]

Thanks @PhillyGuy! Two primary questions at this point -
1) hotel recommendations?
2) how early did you book the hotel?

I stayed at the Hilton in Niseko Village because I used my Hilton points. It noticed that the price actually dropped quite a bit about one month before the trip.

In terms of where to stay, I think Grand Hirafu is the more fun part of the resort. That's were all the restaurants and shops are. There are bars and clubs for late night partying. And the skiing is better there. However, it's more of a town, so be prepared to walk or shuttle to the slopes.

The Hilton is great for ski in and ski out access. The gondola is literally right in front of the hotel. And the onsen is beautiful. My cousin took a lesson there, but I actually didn't really ski there much as I didn't really how the lifts were configured.

There are several new hotels opening next winter, with even more to come for 2020. Until then, my feeling is that the supply of hotels and restaurants are just not enough for the number of tourists. So I would recommend booking a refundable rate early, and check frequent when better options open up later.