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Lets See Your Trusty Steed
- Thread starter Philpug
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- Dec 21, 2015
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Ok
the entire point is to limit outside forces from acting on your hands and make the wheel track straighter when the bike is leaned over. If you are correct enduro and DH riders and freeriders would be riding long stems, but in practice you seem to be flat out wrong.
I ma done argueing with you until you post video of you on your MTB on pump a track.
Only if you're talking about lean-type steering. A longer stem slows down front wheel turn rate because identical linear displacement at the bar ends results in less angular displacement at the headset.
Exactly...and a longer stem helps eliminate hand twitch errors.
That's nice but it leaves out any discussion of too-high steering ratio, which is exactly what I'm pointing out here.
the entire point is to limit outside forces from acting on your hands and make the wheel track straighter when the bike is leaned over. If you are correct enduro and DH riders and freeriders would be riding long stems, but in practice you seem to be flat out wrong.
I ma done argueing with you until you post video of you on your MTB on pump a track.
Agreed 100%, yup. Exactly the point I was making to @Ron above.
Well, this turned into an "MTB ONLY OR ELSE" thread right quick. Right, have fun, carry on.
I'm going to not make the same mistake over again and not pay for hospital again. I'm going to keep buying short TT bikes for her.
Why is the only MTB phrase these days "pump track"? I'm so sick of "enduro" and "pump track". Sigh..
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- Nov 12, 2015
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I think there are too many of these "rules" that now get applied without considering the totality of the bike. Seems a little crazy to me to suddenly decide that roadies have been "doing it wrong" since time immemorial. Much f this has already been tried. I'll bet that Cantunamunch remembers Steve Bauer's "stealth bike" built by Eddy Merckx.
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- Dec 21, 2015
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because the ability to pump shows your skills and your bike set up....
Getting the thread back on track. This is my new ride I picked up late last fall for my first venture into road biking. The picture was taken the day I got it in October but I still need to get it fine tuned with a fitting. Need a shorter stem
as I am a little stretched out on it.
Its not actually that the wind blows your front wheel sideways. It blows YOU (and the frame/rear wheel) sideways. It feels like the front wheel is being moved, because the wind blows and then the front wheel is at an angle to the frame. But it is really the frame that is moving off its path of travel (which of course turns the FW).
However, you're still right that a long stem in that situation helps you stabilize and avoid over correcting. I am just splitting hairs. And it actually emphasizes your point more to view the frame as moving instead of the FW. If the FW moves, you turn because your angular momentum is following the trajectory of the FW. Which is just fine if your path is clear. But if the frame moves, your angular momentum is perpendicular to the travel of the FW. A much more desperate situation. Both because correcting is urgent, magnifying the potential for panic and over correction, and over correction can actually hasten the deceleration of the lower/acceleration of the upper part of the bike. Which, yes, makes it want to pitch you over.
Only if you're talking about lean-type steering. A longer stem slows down front wheel turn rate because identical linear displacement at the bar ends results in less angular displacement at the headset.
Exactly...and a longer stem helps eliminate hand twitch errors.
That's nice but it leaves out any discussion of too-high steering ratio, which is exactly what I'm pointing out here.
Yeah... Not at all in my experience. At all. Short TT and longer stem make a bike 'quicker'. Its about fore/aft weight distribution as Josh mentioned. Race folks will have relatively more weight forward than rec riders, randonee folks, etc... You see this in road bike race geometry because quicker handling is an asset. If you've raced, you know this. This doesn't give anyone permission to ride unpredictably though. That said, there's more to 'stability' than TT and stem length. The old Allez (or an old Vitus aluminum tubeset) someone posted earlier is a case in point... They're just whippy wobble monsters and the TT to stem length ratio wouldn't have mattered much. God knows how Sean Kelly rode the Vitus's without ripping them to pieces. The beauty of new bikes a la carbon is you get light AND stiff... enough so that it's not necessary to do the 'squeeze the TT between the knees' on fast descents. With the old Vitus tube sets, you just got 'light' and tried not to let the chain rub from the deflecting BB drive you nuts and hair raising jiggles going downhill scare you stupid.
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Getting the thread back on track. This is my new ride I picked up late last fall for my first venture into road biking. The picture was taken the day I got it in October but I still need to get it fine tuned with a fitting. Need a shorter stem
Cool ride... Don't forget the saddle position.
Well, I think she's pretty.
Soon to be even prettier. Getting a full makeover this summer...new brakes, drive train, shifters, tires, the whole sha-bang. The parts are sitting in a box, and I just need to find the time to swap everything.
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- Dec 21, 2015
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what is that? AL Honzo?
Thread Starter
TS
Welcome to town, shoot us a message if you want to get together.
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2015
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Thread Starter
TS
What pass is that? I want to take the Miata up there.