True Bar recommendations

[Uncle-A]

In case it's not clear; I need recommendations for a true bar purchase or hack. Cheers

If you want a "Hack" use a 6 inch spackle Blade/Knife it also works for scraping wax.

 

[Sibhusky]

Question - Does Jim Nabors (Gomer Pyle) still live on the road up to Big Mountain? I would always look at this big house going up right on one of the hair pin turns, and someone would occassionally comment - Gomer Pyle lives there. Also, never got to see a drunken Kiefer Sutherland jump on stage and embarass himself, trying to sing. Cheers

Nope. Might have left 8 years ago?

Oops, it's been far longer. Found something that says he left in 2000.

Kiefer Sutherland has been gone a long time as well.

 

[Blue Streak]

Here's a good true bar.

 

[1chris5]

Here's a good true bar.

My dad brags about that bar, I think. He was there in the 80s and they had a contest to see who could stuff the most cocktail napkins in their mouth. I guess you had to be there.

 

[ScotsSkier]

...... I think I am going to prep the ski without changing the side edge angle for now. I am going to see how my wife likes the edges as is. Then I will change the side edge angle to 98 if I think it will enhance her performance on Pocono skiing conditions. The Dynastar has a paulownia wood core. Paulownia is a soft wood that lightens the ski. I will definitely keep an eye on the base as this softness may cause flatness issues, not sure. cheers
View attachment 28890

98 might be a bit extreme.....

 

[Wilhelmson]

I had a johnson control ruler laying around which works fine. OP's question makes we wonder how much precision is needed for a recreational skier. If a new pair of skis is way out of whack any straight edge would show that and it would be best to return the skis. If OP were looking for precise flatness I suppose the remedy would be to flatten at home or take them for a grind, in which case I would wait a season.

My everyday beaters are so concave that I don't even know how much a grind could help (without a belt sanding master) them so I either hand scrape or sand to get them as smooth as possible and then brush the heck out of them to get some structure. They ski great and if I want to go super fast I wax up my old P50s.

 

[ScottB]

From what I gather, you bought an inexpensive round true bar. I am sure it will work for you. My preference is for the type that come to a knife point. Its a little easier to see variations in the base when back lighting. I also use it to measure the base bevel angle along with a feeler gauge. I own a low cost one from Artech which is aluminum. I use it so much I have worn a spot where I place it for base bevel measurements and need to flatten it on a machine. My next purchase will be a expensive steel one which will never wear and need machining. Here are the two I like.

http://www.artechski.com/artech-precision-true-bar

http://www.slidewright.com/svst-world-cup-tru-bar-6-wsheath.php

 

[Muleski]

From what I gather, you bought an inexpensive round true bar. I am sure it will work for you. My preference is for the type that come to a knife point. Its a little easier to see variations in the base when back lighting. I also use it to measure the base bevel angle along with a feeler gauge. I own a low cost one from Artech which is aluminum. I use it so much I have worn a spot where I place it for base bevel measurements and need to flatten it on a machine. My next purchase will be a expensive steel one which will never wear and need machining. Here are the two I like.

http://www.artechski.com/artech-precision-true-bar

http://www.slidewright.com/svst-world-cup-tru-bar-6-wsheath.php

Beat me to it. I think that's very sound advice. If you buy pro-quality tools, and take care of them, they will last and do a better job. I, and my two adult kids all own that SVST true bar. The "newest" one is about 15 years old these days.

I don't see how a round truebar can do what I use mine for. I agree that typically one need not go overkill, but frankly the best tools do make a difference. They made a difference working on my mother's skis, right up until she stopped skiing at 88.

One guy's opinion.

 

[1chris5]

98 might be a bit extreme.....

Oops 88

 

[1chris5]

Beat me to it. I think that's very sound advice. If you buy pro-quality tools, and take care of them, they will last and do a better job. I, and my two adult kids all own that SVST true bar. The "newest" one is about 15 years old these days.

I don't see how a round truebar can do what I use mine for. I agree that typically one need not go overkill, but frankly the best tools do make a difference. They made a difference working on my mother's skis, right up until she stopped
skiing at 88.


One guy's opinion.

That's great advice but I can only partially take it. I have a small budget for supplies and I upgrade a little each year. A basic SVST bar is @ 20 at racewerks. I also need to take into account sales and free shipping. I picked up 2 quality files, a ceramic stone and soft wax for hot scraping along with the true bar for $80. I have to think "good 'nuff" most times. Just like my skiing technique. Cheers

 

[PTskier]

Yes, always check new skis. The epoxy can continue to cure after the new skis are tuned in the factory. I had new Head skis that sometimes would have a mind of their own, sometimes zip this way or that way. They had a very small concavity. It didn't look like much when checked with a true bar, but a good tune (Alpine Pro at Whistler upper village..) and the skis were really nice.

Ignore the factory edge angles. Use edge angles that suit your snow conditions and your skiing technique.

 

[Muleski]

On this true bar topic, I was speaking with a friend the other day who had been in some conversation about Bomber skis. His comment was that they needed quite a bit of work to be ready to ski. That would be OK, IF they can actually sell at that price point, and if the demand is ever there.

I asked why? Evidently the factory is a very old one, and the curing room is NOT climate controlled. That setup can lead to all sorts of issues, all of which can at least be initially fixed with a grind.

I assume that he knew what he was talking about. Can't guarantee it.

 

[1chris5]

On this true bar topic, I was speaking with a friend the other day who had been in some conversation about Bomber skis. His comment was that they needed quite a bit of work to be ready to ski. That would be OK, IF they can actually sell at that price point, and if the demand is ever there.

I asked why? Evidently the factory is a very old one, and the curing room is NOT climate controlled. That setup can lead to all sorts of issues, all of which can at least be initially fixed with a grind.

I assume that he knew what he was talking about. Can't guarantee it.

Interesting - the top sheets of the skis are visually arresting. The Haring line top sheets are very cool. I assume only those owning jets are allowed to buy. Does that mean the master craftsmen working in Cossato, Italy are producing these in a "facility" without air conditioning?

 

[Muleski]

I don't know all of the details. And I do not want to risprepresent anything. What I was told was that the room where skis cure is not climate controlled. Most modern ski factories cure them at a certain temp range, humidity, etc.

Probably not a stretch to assume serious craftsmen who have hand built skis for generations working in what are pretty small "factories" or "facilities." A lot of great skis have come out of that small area. And some maybe not so great.

The original point was that you can buy a premium, artisan ski , still need to take a careful look at the base, and perhaps do some work to get it right. I have seen issues on an awful lot of race skis that went from production to shipping and skipped the race room in between.

Yet another reason why race skis with a known history and background tend to just "be better." The race room techs hand pick the ones that seem best to them, and then go to work.

We had an awful lot of discussion on here about Bomber a year ago when Bode was allegedly thinking of a comeback. The discussion of his Bombers versus some of the fastest skis on the WC {his specific quiver of Head} was interesting.

I guess hand made had pros and cons.

 

[1chris5]

I don't know all of the details. And I do not want to risprepresent anything. What I was told was that the room where skis cure is not climate controlled. Most modern ski factories cure them at a certain temp range, humidity, etc.

Probably not a stretch to assume serious craftsmen who have hand built skis for generations working in what are pretty small "factories" or "facilities." A lot of great skis have come out of that small area. And some maybe not so great.

The original point was that you can buy a premium, artisan ski , still need to take a careful look at the base, and perhaps do some work to get it right. I have seen issues on an awful lot of race skis that went from production to shipping and skipped the race room in between.

Yet another reason why race skis with a known history and background tend to just "be better." The race room techs hand pick the ones that seem best to them, and then go to work.

We had an awful lot of discussion on here about Bomber a year ago when Bode was allegedly thinking of a comeback. The discussion of his Bombers versus some of the fastest skis on the WC {his specific quiver of Head} was interesting.

I guess hand made had pros and cons.

It looks like these are basically rebranded Blossom's. I have only heard great things about those skis. The marketing of these skis bother me, though. I think the Bode trailer is ridiculous. I like the skis all seem to be full camber.

 

[Don in Morrison]

I've got a chunk of aluminum strip, about 6 inches long, an inch and a half wide and an eighth of an inch thick that I use for a true bar. Left over from some other long-ago project.

 

[Muleski]

It looks like these are basically rebranded Blossom's. I have only heard great things about those skis. The marketing of these skis bother me, though. I think the Bode trailer is ridiculous. I like the skis all seem to be full camber.

That is a frequent assumption, and they are NOT Blossom skis. Not made by Blossom, etc. At one point, years ago when first introduced, they were pretty much the same as Cohen skis. They are now their own thing. I have no idea where they stand. Rumors are that they are gearing up for a big year, more retailers, etc., but we have heard that before. Hard to break into that super high end market. Harder if the "love" of how they ski is not universal, too.

They have tried to get the skis out in big numbers at some high end resorts, and I don't have a firm handle at all on how many they have sold. I do know a number of industry types who have said that Bode's name doesn't do much to help sell a premium ski. People tend to want to know how they are built, how others have liked them, etc. Not who the "face" is.

They are a pretty traditional design. I am hoping to hear that more people like the most recent skis, and that they are "better."

I had the misfortune of spending a lot of time for many years in Mid-town Manhattan. The whole designer brand ski boutique thing there has always made me wonder if it generated much interest, or many sales.

I DO hope that it works out for Bode, as he likely left a lot of compensation on the table with Head. And it sounds like he is invested in Bomber, though nobody seems to know to what degree. Or nobody says.

The whole charade late last summer and fall was tedious. Between the boots, the skis, and the reality of the situation.

Just my opinions and guesses. Nothing more.

 

[1chris5]

That is a frequent assumption, and they are NOT Blossom skis. Not made by Blossom, etc. At one point, years ago when first introduced, they were pretty much the same as Cohen skis. They are now their own thing. I have no idea where they stand. Rumors are that they are gearing up for a big year, more retailers, etc., but we have heard that before. Hard to break into that super high end market. Harder if the "love" of how they ski is not universal, too.

They have tried to get the skis out in big numbers at some high end resorts, and I don't have a firm handle at all on how many they have sold. I do know a number of industry types who have said that Bode's name doesn't do much to help sell a premium ski. People tend to want to know how they are built, how others have liked them, etc. Not who the "face" is.

They are a pretty traditional design. I am hoping to hear that more people like the most recent skis, and that they are "better."

I had the misfortune of spending a lot of time for many years in Mid-town Manhattan. The whole designer brand ski boutique thing there has always made me wonder if it generated much interest, or many sales.

I DO hope that it works out for Bode, as he likely left a lot of compensation on the table with Head. And it sounds like he is invested in Bomber, though nobody seems to know to what degree. Or nobody says.

The whole charade late last summer and fall was tedious. Between the boots, the skis, and the reality of the situation.

Just my opinions and guesses. Nothing more.

They seem to be serious skis, marketed to people who buy Elle magazine. The customer base better be good skiers because these skis don't look like they are for beginner or intermediate turners. Bode seems like a very good guy. Hopefully they can sell the company to a Russian oligarch. Oh, and get the quality control issues taken care of.

 

[L&AirC]

Here are some random thoughts on true bars.

I have a knife edge one (I think the Artech one) and like it. What is nice about this is it goes edge to edge and if you slide it lightly, it will leave a light scratch line so you can see where it is or isn't touching.

I was in a ski shop a couple years ago (SkiMD) and he had a true bar fashioned with a small light behind it. Been looking for something like that but haven't found one yet. Makes it so you don't have to hold them to the light or anything. If anyone knows of one, I'm plenty interested.

Like was previously asked, once you know the condition, what are you going to do? I have the skivisions as well and I flattened a pair of skis with it once. Life's too short. I do like the tool and the idea of having flat skis but it is a lot of work. I only use it for touch ups and repairs now. Usually I take my skis in to one of two shops I like and ask they only flatten and structure the bottom and leave the base and side edge alone. I explain it has nothing to do with their abilities but when I touch them up through the season it will be with my tools, my hands and my technique; not theirs. This way, they are always the same and if anything is not right, it is on me and no one else.

The next question is how flat do you need them? Keep in mind the snow isn't flat and if you carve, you aren't on the bottoms a lot anyway. What I like about having the bottom flat is when I set the edges, it is more consistent. I might not matter anywhere but in my head (I have OCD tendencies). Well there and when you know you're going to be on ice. I love sharp skis. I've been out on my crappy trees ski that had a lick and a promise tune and the Race Director where I coach told me I was making beautiful carved turns. I was on my worst skis with hardly a tune and got the best compliment of the season. That immediately made me question the hours I spend each season at the tuning bench getting my race and coaching skis perfect. Why bother if it isn't affecting my skiing. Fortunately I think of tuning as therapy and is a good excuse to drink so I still do it

Cheers,
Ken

 

[ScotsSkier]

Welcome aboard Ken!