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The Never-Ending Atomic Ski Boot Discussion

Ice Coast Ripper

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Measure the circumference of your calf muscle in centimeters and choose the most appropriate option:
~28cm = XS
~30cm = S
~32cm = M
~34cm = L

They stretch out a bit so err on the snugger side.
Thank you @onenerdykid. I really appreciate it. That information was not listed anywhere on the US Atomic website that I could find, or on any other sites.
 

ScottB

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Hey, just picked up some 2024 Hawx ultra. Coming from 2023 k2 mindbenders. First day skiing my balance felt decently off, felt pushed too far forward and was compensating by leaning back. Just standing in place felt a bit off. Had the forward lean set to what it is out of the box (15°). My mindbenders were set to 12° of forward lean and I had in an 1/8" heel lift. I believe the mindbenders ramp angle is ~1° versus the hawx ramp angle of ~4°. Should setting the forward lean of the hawx to the most upright position of 13° make them feel more similar to my mindbenders and get me back in balance? I'm assuming the 1/8" heel lift in the mindbenders adds to the ramp angle so its not actually 1° if that thought process is correct.

ONK responded, so I would follow his advice. I was going to suggest changing the forward lean yourself (ala ONK) and then ski the boots again and see how they feel. If that doesn't solve it, then its time to see a bootfitter. Forward lean is a relatively simple DIY adjustment in a lot of boots.
 

DevinS

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Trying out the 13° setting is a really simple change. Remove the liners from the shells, loosen the screw(s) that hold the Power Shift element on the back of the cuff (don't fully remove, just loosen enough to fully disengage the Power Shift from the cuff), push the cuff rearward (you'll notice a gap become present between the back of the shell and cuff), insert the supplied 13° black shim into the back of the shell (they are right and left specific), position the Power Shift to 13° (it will sit flush with the top of the recess in the cuff), and tighten down the screws.
View attachment 233785 View attachment 233784
Thanks for the reply Matt, I had already set it to 13° for my next time on the skis but did not remember to put in the shims. I'll make the change now.
 

Tony S

I have a confusion to make ...
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Another forward lean question. The boot is an STI 130. I have had a lot of logistical problems trying to get quality fitter time this season, and am hoping to solve this issue myself.

Assume that minimum forward lean is the right setting for me. Assume that cuff alignment and other fundamentals are done.

I noticed during my last ski day that something was off. Got home and noticed that on one boot the spine bolt had slipped and that the cuff was now in the max forward lean position again, despite the bolt having been well tightened. The other bolt had slipped about halfway.

I'm going to assume further that the current setup is not meant to be permanent, but to allow trialing different forward lean settings. Presumably I need to install the second bolt, that has a round, not oval, hole in the plate, and therefore can't slip. This appears to require drilling a hole in the desired location. So far, so good.

BUT... On the inside of the shell there is already a hole in the clog! If I drill through the cuff from the outside, I'm not likely to magically align with that hole in the clog. It would be a mess. Right?

What am I missing here? Thanks in advance.

PXL_20240418_005652371.MP~3.jpg
PXL_20240418_005815281~2.jpg
 
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onenerdykid

onenerdykid

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BUT... On the inside of the shell there is already a hole in the clog! If I drill through the cuff from the outside, I'm not likely to magically align with that hole in the clog. It would be a mess. Right?

What am I missing here? Thanks in advance.
It won't be a mess, but it is drilled from the factory as this is what our race department wants... it won't be that way in the future, but it is that way for the time being.

When you drill the top hole, it will be very close and when you install the claw nut it will grip its way into the plastic and stay there. Not the most elegant solution, but it is the exact same scenario that our World Cup athletes have.
 

surfski

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With the TI and STI boots, since the change from the dull and i think textured finish era to the shiny plastic, have there been changes to the plastics used in order to alter the performance ?
 
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onenerdykid

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With the TI and STI boots, since the change from the dull and i think textured finish era to the shiny plastic, have there been changes to the plastics used in order to alter the performance ?
The PU-ethers currently used in Redster TI & STI boots that you can buy are from the tool box used in World Cup racing. We are of course experimenting with new/different plastics in racing, but nothing has made its way into the commercial range just yet.
 

surfski

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The PU-ethers currently used in Redster TI & STI boots that you can buy are from the tool box used in World Cup racing. We are of course experimenting with new/different plastics in racing, but nothing has made its way into the commercial range just yet.
So since they became shiny they have continued to be of the same plastic until the present.
I ask as i read someone say the year the boots had red buckles is the one to go for. The only reason i could think for such a recomendation would be if the plastics have changed at some point
 
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onenerdykid

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So since they became shiny they have continued to be of the same plastic until the present.
I ask as i read someone say the year the boots had red buckles is the one to go for. The only reason i could think for such a recomendation would be if the plastics have changed at some point
The plastics that are in the boot are relatively unchanged since 2005. This holds true for almost all World Cup-level ski boots. What people may be feeling are simply batch tolerances of plastics, which boot manufacturers have no control over. Plastic manufacturers cannot do better than +/- 7% from the material hardness spec we set.
 

salvatore

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A CS 110 is stiffer/more stable/more precise than many "all mountain" 130s. Depending on your size, you might want to try that boot out. But, if you do go the 130 route, it can definitely be softened and made less aggressive.

While the CS 130 is a precise and responsive boot, it is the main choice for most of our freeski athletes. They turn to it for its stability and suspension, rather than its precision. I guess what I am trying to say is that it is not a one-trick-pony that only skis at F1 speeds or only behaves properly at F1 speeds. It's a great all-round boot if you are used to other "130" level boots.
Curious why the FS athletes choose the CS over the Ti. Can the Ti be a bit strong FS boot?
 

chris_the_wrench

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I'm interested in Atomic's volume reducing leg pad. What size should I get? I have chicken legs and ski a 24.5 boot that is very low volume, and use a booster strap

I haven’t seen those. Do they top out right at the top of the liner, or overlap above it some? Id appreciate some photos of them ‘installed’ when you get them. I struggle with the fit on any boot at the upper end of the liner(Majority of my calf muscle is above).
 
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onenerdykid

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I haven’t seen those. Do they top out right at the top of the liner, or overlap above it some? Id appreciate some photos of them ‘installed’ when you get them. I struggle with the fit on any boot at the upper end of the liner(Majority of my calf muscle is above).

Picture2.jpg

Leg Pad 2.JPG
 

Crumb

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I had a question I hadn’t been able to find the answer to. I am 6’2” with long legs and extremely low volume narrow foot/calves and was wondering if the STI 130 in a size 26.5 or 27.5 is the same cuff height as the TI 130? And if it’s not could it be modified to be? Appreciate the help, this forum has been an incredible resource!
 
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onenerdykid

onenerdykid

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I had a question I hadn’t been able to find the answer to. I am 6’2” with long legs and extremely low volume narrow foot/calves and was wondering if the STI 130 in a size 26.5 or 27.5 is the same cuff height as the TI 130? And if it’s not could it be modified to be? Appreciate the help, this forum has been an incredible resource!
The same cuff is used between STI and TI but the shell of the STI is 10mm lower, therefore the cuff sits 10mm lower.
 

OutWestBC

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Atomic Hawx Prime Flex
I have an Atomic Hawx Prime flex question. Been skiiing since i could walk, ski 45ish days a year. 5'7 tall, 175lbs. Very confident and aggressive on all terrain. Very much an all mountain skiier, will ski backside off piste, trees, moguls, park, fresh piste and choppy leftovers. I generally morph my style to the current conditions throughout a run and will go from pure carving wide gs on piste to old school ankles pinned together tight turns through moguls, then into the trees and then dip into the park to hit a few jumps. I have been skiing Fischer RCpro 110s (ski well, but are mushed out >250days), Salomon Spro 120 (fit well, but too upright and flex felt weirdly off) and a k2 diverge 120 felt alright(maybe a little soft for a 120, but dont fit well. )
I had a chance to try Atomic Hawx Prime 110s and the flex felt too soft, but they were the best performing boot I have ever skiied on. At 110 they would fold forward just traversing across bumpy terrain. That said the shock absorbing qualities were sweet. But in terms of control.... believe how incredible the Atomic Hawx Primes feel in terms of lateral control and tail butters etc and overall lightweight. I honestly think I skiied at my personal best having the control these boots offer. But even through moguls they felt too soft and hingey to trust at speed.

I have tried other 130s in the past that felt a bit rigid and unforgiving landing jumps and skiing bumps, where it felt like my knees and legs were overloaded quickly absorbing the shocks rather than the boots. But at the same time I do prefer a stiff precise feel.

So trying to decide between the Atomic hawx Primes... 120 or 130?

I tried on a Prime 120 and felt it was significantly stiffer than the 110, but hard to know without skiing.

I have heard the 130s are still very good at shock absorbing but I keep thinking the 120 will be a better all mountain boot for better control in trees and softer for bumps and landing jumps.

Can anyone make a recommendation considering expert level 5'7 and 175lbs? Onenerdykid?

Anyone know if the 120s are closer to the 110s or the 130s?
 

ScottB

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They are 1/2 way in-between.

In all seriousness, you can make a boot softer, but not stiffer. But having said that the 120 sounds like the right choice for you. If you get Zipfits liners that will add a little stiffness too
 

Jeronimo

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They are 1/2 way in-between.

In all seriousness, you can make a boot softer, but not stiffer. But having said that the 120 sounds like the right choice for you. If you get Zipfits liners that will add a little stiffness too
intuition wrap liner will add significant stiffness as well.
 

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