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Good Article on Bike Prices

markojp

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I just wait for close out stuff. You can get a ton of bike for 2-2.5k when a 4-5k bike is at 50% off. My two 'if I won the lottery' rides kitted out as I like are roughly 8.5 and 10k at MAP pricing. The 'of I won the lottery' because then I'd have time enough to ride them to a fitness level that I wouldn't embarrass myself. ogsmile
 

Monique

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Yeah, that's part of it. Anticipation, choosing the correct next-gear so they don't waste momentum spinning endlessly or grinding unnecessarily, which gear they should actually be in to maintain their best cadence, standing versus sitting gear. Technique, including proper use of gearing, is probably worth 10-15%. Most people probably don't care and that's ok. Not being judgemental, some people just don't care.

And then, of course, keeping the drivetrain clean so that it can actually function well ... I'm doing a lot better with that this year!
 

Tricia

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Bump - because this is still a topic of discussion.
 

Plai

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Back to the $2-2.5K sweet spot article comment. +1 from me in support. A decent frame, competent group and wheels. I ride 2-4 times a (dry weather) month, typically 20-40 miles, sometimes with 2K ft climbs... so comfort (read "carbon") is needed. Everything else is not that much.

But for some reason I'm always trying to get that $3K (yeah, I rounded up) bike for 1/3 of retail -- so that typically means 1-3 yrs used.

Wish I could be like @cbk. Would love to have the ability to do my own builds.

Have friends with higher dollar bikes that are still learning how to shift. They don't get out much.
Have friends with lower dollar bikes that kick my butt.

Also +1 on it's the engine, not the bike. That said, a comfortable bike, makes this engine want to go (again).
 

Carl Kuck

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Carl Kuck

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It ain't the bike, it's the motor. In the early 2000's I did some rides with the LLS (Team In Training) and started building bikes for people that wanted to ride but couldn't afford. As an example, I built a bike from a Leader (that's the brand) frame/fork I got on eBay for about $80. Scrounged up parts, I think this one was 8-speed and I used all Shimano, 105 or Ultegra. Total cost about $200. The recipient was a young guy in the Marines, his wife was working in the LLS office. She got a bike too.

Best part was talking with the mentor of the guy's ride group after a long, very hilly ride one afternoon. I asked how Doug did on the ride, and he laughed and said he did great and the best part was seeing him blow by two guys on $5K Colnago bikes like they were stopped on a bike built from a cheap eBay frame and scrounged parts. It ain't the bike, it's the motor.

Having said that, I'd also add that I'd guess (and this is just a SWAG here) bikes are like cars that lose value compared to the purchase price once they get off the showroom floor, you can definitely get deals on used bikes for road. And, yes, I'm an unrepentant roadie. I also like fast, carved turns on groomers. If somebody ever said "Hey, do you want to drive at Le Mans or the Nürburgring?" my answer would be "Oh hell yes !!!" Just sayin'
:huh:
 

Carl Kuck

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You'd totally dig my '87 Schwinn Wheaties Pro Team Paramount! :thumb:

Just FYI, this frameset is the real deal and was painted by Joe Bell of San Diego (he did all their original team bikes). I paid just over $300 on eBay. It had been used as a promotional/window display bike at a shop in TN that had gone out of business, never ridden. I took it to Joe to get touched up, when he asked how much and I told him he laughed and said "you stole this!" Good cheap stuff is out there.
 
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Carl Kuck

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And then, of course, keeping the drivetrain clean so that it can actually function well ... I'm doing a lot better with that this year!
I'm a roadie from So Cal. Dirty drivetrains? I wouldn't know of such things...
 

Rod9301

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Off topic: What kinds of things do people do improperly? (wondering if I can learn something here) (I already know I shouldn't be shifting under load, but sometimes it happens ... )



I mean, I can't use my bike to its potential. I know that. Every bike I've ever owned could be ridden much harder by a better rider. But I can tell when the shifting works better. I can tell you that a 1x drivetrain has made shifting a lot less annoying, more reliable, and I don't have to worry about chain slap. And the ridic expensive Eagle allowed me to get the 1x, because the granny gear is pretty much the same as my old bike. While I'll never use my bike to its full potential, my bike is still the one whose behavior on trails I liked best. I mentioned the drive train. Dropper posts are expensive, and I'm not great about using them, but with my old QR setup I never dropped at all because I'm a total princess about having my seat height exactly right, and it was too annoying to deal with on the ride. I sprang for a ratchet upgrade because, yes, I noticed the difference. Etc etc.

So, while I can't use my bike to its full potential, I still am aware that many of its expensive features - down to the frame itself - improve my riding experience. I guess I'm confused. I see "Can you use the bike to its full potential?" as a question unrelated to "Can you tell the difference when you spring for higher end frames/components?" And to me, the latter seems more relevant.

Are you just saying "Yes, but you don't *need* it" in a different way?
I can't imagine someone not using a dropper post in the last, say, 15 years.
 

cantunamunch

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Wish I could be like @cbk. Would love to have the ability to do my own builds..

Just do it! There's enough YouTube videos and online material to see you through just about anything except wheel truing and bottom bracket 'standards' . Everything else is just a matter of time, patience, and common sense, with a fishing-like Zen available to the practitioners.

Good cheap stuff is out there.

I'm thinking now is the time to round out my '90s Ti collection. If she'll let me bring another frame through the door, that is :D
 

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