DIN settings ?

[Phaceplanter]

Kind of a follow up to my other thread:. Got rental skis. They said I could bring them by for any adjustments I might need.

Curious, how do you know when DIN settings are too low and may need to adjust up? Does it only have to do with when the ski releases from your boot? I've only been out twice on these and they seem to work fine.

The setting is at 5.5. I'm about 5'9 165. I described myself to them as a low level intermediate wanting to improve and being able to handle more challenging slopes.

I know it's all relative to where you are as far as blue or black diamonds, but already I've done some trails that last year I found too steep or intimidating. I followed my fearless 9 year old down one of our single black diamonds - the first time I've ever tried it and handled it pretty well.

So I was thinking maybe I'm skiing more aggressively than the I told the guys I would at the shop and maybe should get the DIN set a notch higher or is it irrelevant and just pertains to the skis coming off when you land on your butt?

One more thing about my size - I have lost about 30-35 pounds since last year if that has to do with skiing better maybe than I expected.

 

[cantunamunch]

Curious, how do you know when DIN settings are too low and may need to adjust up? Does it only have to do with when the ski releases from your boot?

At this point in your development, yes.

I've only been out twice on these and they seem to work fine.

Good - you're done. Unless something happens *knock on wood*

The setting is at 5.5. I'm about 5'9 165. I described myself to them as a low level intermediate wanting to improve and being able to handle more challenging slopes.

I know it's all relative to where you are as far as blue or black diamonds, but already I've done some trails that last year I found too steep or intimidating. I followed my fearless 9 year old down one of our single black diamonds - the first time I've ever tried it and handled it pretty well.

Re-evaluate at 20+ days of skiing or at the start of next season.

So I was thinking maybe I'm skiing more aggressively than the I told the guys I would at the shop and maybe should get the DIN set a notch higher or is it irrelevant and just pertains to the skis coming off when you land on your butt?

Don't worry about it - you've got tons of ways to improve your skiing and re-setting the binding release is not one of them.

One more thing about my size - I have lost about 30-35 pounds since last year if that has to do with skiing better maybe than I expected.

It's a possibility.

 

[Uncle-A]

Welcome to the PUGSKI community. If you find your bindings releasing when you do not feel stress on the leg would be an indicator or releasing when you do not expect them to release would be another. I am guessing you have a season rental so I would also talk to the shop that rented you the skis. You could also check if there is a DIN chart available on the web to double check the shops work.

 

[PTskier]

Bindings do not always release as hoped. They are not perfect. A bit light on the setting is usually safer than a bit high.

I’m 6’, 180, ski pretty fast and moderately hard, set the bindings at 6.5, and I’ve never had a prerelease. They come off when they need to. I never feel stress on the leg when they come off once or twice a year. If I did feel stress, I’d get the bindings repaired or replaced. Follow the chart.

 

[Phaceplanter]

Ok, so again the settings are at 5.5. The other night when out at the local hill, my boot popped out just as I was turning to a stop just at the chairlift area. So I think it might be time to take them to the shop.

 

[PTskier]

Nope. Likely you twisted so hard that the binding releases did their job. Learn to ski on top of your skis, rolling them on edge to turn and to make stops. The purpose of the binding releases is to protect your bones & ligaments. Before my knees were so creaky I often used to stop then twist out of both bindings to take the skis off. They never released unneededly for me.

Take a look at the posting titled “Humorous side of skiing.” Look how the instructor is free skiing with her skis on edge, not twisted sideways to turn.

I spent this week at Vail. One day of powder and the rest on groomers and crud. I’ve been skiing fast and hard. I had one release...when I didn’t get all the snow off one heel before clicking in.

By the way, my unproven theory is that snow sticks to boot soles worse when the soles are abraded from walking on pavement. I always put Cat Tracks on the boots when I walk more than a few steps on pavement. The Cat Tracks can be a pain to get on. Poking a hole in the tabs with a hot nail, then tying on a short loop of cord, is a help. The best boot sole release agent I’ve found so far is Pam frying pan spray.

 

[Philpug]

We are forgetting one of the main factors in deciding what a binding will be set at...Boot Sole Length. the OP is in a rental boot...what do we know about rental boots? They are usually sized one or two sizes up. What does a larger boot sole length mean? A lower release setting.

I described myself to them as a low level intermediate wanting to improve and being able to handle more challenging slopes.

At this point it is time to step up and buy your own gear. The rental gear has taken you as far as it can especially if you are saying you want to get better and handle more challenging terrain.

 

[slowrider]

Make sure your boots & bindings are clear of ice & snow before clicking in. Besides your skill level, your physical condition/strength plays a roll in DIN setting. My DIN chart setting is 6. I would walk out of that DIN. I run a 9.

 

[Philpug]

Make sure your boots & bindings are clear of ice & snow before clicking in. Besides your skill level, your physical condition/strength plays a roll in DIN setting. My DIN chart setting is 6. I would walk out of that DIN. I run a 9.

Sorry, skill level, physical condition and strength play absolutely NO roll in how a binding is set.

The only factors that have to do with how a binding is set:

• Skier Type (see above chart)
  
• Weight
• Height
• Age
• Boot Sole Length

Not...

• Ability
• Skill Level
• Condtion/Strength
• Gender
• Skis
• Binding Brand

 

[Rod9301]

Sorry, skill level, physical condition and strength play absolutely NO roll in how a binding is set.

The only factors that have to do with how a binding is set:

• Skier Type (see above chart)
  
• Weight
• Height
• Age
• Boot Sole Length

Not...

• Ability
• Skill Level
• Condtion/Strength
• Gender
• Skis
• Binding Brand

So if you're a woman with osteoporosis, same fun setting as a man who lifts weights regularly (assuming same weight, type, boot length etc)?

 

[slowrider]

Isn't skill level the same as skier type?

 

[Philpug]

So if you're a woman with osteoporosis, same fun setting as a man who lifts weights regularly (assuming same weight, type, boot length etc)?

Correct. If everthing else is the same. Please show me on the chart where there is an adjustment for Female or Osteoporosis?

 

[T-Square]

There are two more skier types that are not normally talked about; 1- and 3+. I have used 1- for years. I’m a fairly expert skier. My skis stay on. They only come off when they should. I feel the lower setting is safer for me.

For reference, I’m 6’1", 210+ lbs, 65 years old, 326mm boot sole length, type 1- skier (my choice). This results in a DIN setting of 4. This has worked well for me.

Ski binding DIN setting discussions tend to become a macho thing which is wrong. The release mechanisms for bindings were developed as a safety measure to help prevent leg injuries. The DIN setting chart uses weight, height, and boot sole length to calculate the appropriate release setting for the binding. Then age is factored in; kids and older individuals have the setting reduced by 1. Finally skier preference is taken into account to determine the final setting.

Your ski shop certified technician will use the chart and information provided by you to adjust the settings.

Here’s an on line version of the chart. Use it at your own risk. http://www.mechanicsofsport.com/skiing/equipment/bindings/din-calculator.html

I know there are racers and others that crank up the settings as high as possible. That is their choice. They are making a risk-reward calculation based upon their own criteria. For me, I’d rather the ski come off than the leg get injured.

 

[Philpug]

Isn't skill level the same as skier type?

No. You can be an "expert skier" and be a type II..or even a I because you are very smooth and not ski aggressively. You can be the neanderthal guy that @Rod9301 is trying to use as an example and be an intermediate be very aggressive. Type III or even any binding setting is not a rite of passage or should it be used as an ego booster, it is all about the leverage a boot creates in a binding and a balance of release and retention.

 

[Phaceplanter]

We are forgetting one of the main factors in deciding what a binding will be set at...Boot Sole Length. the OP is in a rental boot...what do we know about rental boots? They are usually sized one or two sizes up. What does a larger boot sole length mean? A lower release setting.


At this point it is time to step up and buy your own gear. The rental gear has taken you as far as it can especially if you are saying you want to get better and handle more challenging terrain.

Actually I have my own boots. I bought my first pair this season. The skis are rentals. Seasonal rentals I got from the same shop I bought the boots from. Skis next on the list for purchase.

 

[Philpug]

Actually I have my own boots. I bought my first pair this season. The skis are rentals. Seasonal rentals I got from the same shop I bought the boots from. Skis next on the list for purchase.

Well, thats one variable that is taken out. Just out of curiosity, what is the sole lenght of the boots? It is on the heel (usually) on the side.

 

[Ken_R]

The best way to figure out DIN setting is by using the official setting.

I generally do not like to get my skis to release easily. I ski at higher speeds and in rough snow in steep terrain a lot. I actually use a bit higher DIN settings on my longer, wider and heavier skis and lower on my narrower lighter skis. The other day I hit a pole that ski patrol puts on trails to mark obstacles. I hit it with the edge/base of my outside ski while turning and the ski popped off and I fell. If it had not I would have probably kept going. Years ago I had skis pre release while turning due to me underestimating my skiing and the shop putting in the correct lower DIN value for my skiing description. But generally you want a ski to release on impact to prevent knee damage.

 

[Dwight]

After the bindings have been set, they should be tested on a machine to make sure the setting falls into the correct tolerances. Then adjusted appropriately or considered worthless bindings. Usually done once a year.

 

[Mike Thomas]

Phil is killing it in this thread. Might as well lock it up.

 

[Philpug]

The best way to figure out your initial setting is by using the official chart.

FIFY. The chart is to help figure out what your initial setting should be, the binding should still be tested. It is NOT what is in the window that is the detemining factor to what the binding will release at. @Dwight posted that as I was typing...

After the bindings have been set, they should be tested on a machine to make sure the setting falls into the correct tolerances. Then adjusted appropriately or considered worthless bindings. Usually done once a year.

Sorry to be so anal here. I am not so much replying to the misinformation posted here but to the people who are just reading this thread and not either members of the site but lurkers. ​