Using Ski Visions Course Stone without the Tool Itself?

Discussion in 'Tuning Techniques and Tool Information' started by SallyCat, Mar 25, 2017.

  1. SallyCat

    SallyCat Booting up Skier

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    Hi, I'd like to put s coarse structure on my bases for wet spring snow. But I'm cheap and I don't want to buy the whole tool. Can I just buy the stone for fifteen bucks and rig some sort of shim/holder?

    I can't have my shop do it. That was the site of my flirtation debacle; too humiliating. Now I won't go to any ski shop that doesn't require me to cross at least two state lines or show a passport.
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2017
  2. Sibhusky

    Sibhusky Getting on the lift Skier

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  3. Sibhusky

    Sibhusky Getting on the lift Skier

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    And I still haven't watched it.

    Go to post 19 in that thread.
     
  4. SallyCat

    SallyCat Booting up Skier

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    Thank you, @Sibhusky ! I've watched a few of his videos and they are helpful. I'll set aside some time for this one.
     
  5. Sibhusky

    Sibhusky Getting on the lift Skier

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    I wish he'd edit his videos, I get impatient within the first 45 seconds with his yakking.
     
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  6. SallyCat

    SallyCat Booting up Skier

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    Huh, he doesn't use a course stone, he's just putting in a linear structure with a metal scraper.
    I guess what I want to know is which edge of the stone do you impart structure with, and at what angle do you hold it?
     
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2017
  7. oldschoolskier

    oldschoolskier Getting off the lift Skier

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    While Jacques does share some very good info, becareful how you use it as some will destroy your skis so quickly. What does work for him, unless you have his touch won't always work for you.
     
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  8. SallyCat

    SallyCat Booting up Skier

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    Word. I wouldn't do any of the stuff he does in the vid, but I always learn a lot from watching.
     
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  9. KingGrump

    KingGrump Most Interesting Man In The World Skier

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    This is the side view of Ski Vision tool with the steel blade resting on the base of a ski. The stone has the same profile as the steel blade.
    Orientation of the cutter is fairly obvious at this angle.

    LR_P1000204.jpg

    You can probably rig up something similar with a few pieces of wood and some wedges. Won't be as slick, but it will work.
    Make sure you have continuous support on the stone. The stones are very fragile.

    IMHO, sometimes it is easier to buy the tool.
     
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  10. eok

    eok Slopefossil Skier

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    I have the SkiVisions tool & it has worked pretty well for me the last couple seasons. So, some info on my experiences from using it...

    For flattening skis, I only use it for skis that are just slightly concave/convex. Extreme cases can just take too much time for me with the tool (like days), so I get those skis ground at the shop.

    I use the tool most often for structuring. I have both the medium & coarse stones. Probably use the medium the most. I'll sometimes use the coarse stone to prep for spring skiing late in the season.

    Where the tool also really works well for me is the final step of base repair. I use the metal cutting bar to flatten the repaired area & then use one of the stones to impart structure on the repaired area (if needed). Gives me consistently good results. But, full disclosure here: I can do the same thing (minus the structuring part) armed with just a metal scraper with a good burr on it.

    I have tried using the stones alone for tackling some challenging spots on the base or to fine tune the structure. Simply put: it can be tricky. You really have to hold the stone carefully to get the pressure & angle consistent - but the stones are pretty narrow and thus can be hard to control by hand. The tool (which is really a specialized holder for their stones & cutter) really is needed if you want consistency & accuracy. You do have to clean the stone (with a brass brush) every couple of passes, otherwise the stone will get clogged & not cut well. I guess the main rules in using the tool: use the hand position shown in their videos, use moderate pressure and clean the stone every couple of passes.

    The stones are about 1/2"x1/2" diameter. Two sides (opposite of one another) have a special abrasive grit deposited on the surface. The other two sides are plain stone. You "freshen" the sharpness of the cutting edges by sanding the plain (non-abrasive) sides on 220 grit emery paper (paper is on a very flat plate of metal or glass). It only takes a few passes on the emery to get the sharp edge back.

    For most efficient use of the tool: make sure your bases are really really clean & free of wax. Otherwise the stone will clog with wax the first pass - and that can be a pain to clean. Experiment with the orientation of the stone in the tool to figure out which orientation cuts best. In my experience, stone orientation for best cutting can differ from stone to stone.

    I imagine the stones are probably brittle as they are pretty narrow and, well, they're stones. Haven't broken one yet.
     
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  11. SallyCat

    SallyCat Booting up Skier

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    @KingGrump and @Slopefossil, thanks so much for the feedback. I just ordered the coarse stone and the structuring tool. It t sounds like I could try to go commando with the stone, but it probably wouldn't be worth the trouble. Thanks for helping me figure that out the easy way!
     
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  12. cantunamunch

    cantunamunch Head First Skier

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    And you can use the tool as a wax scraper with a, `$6 piece of acrylic rod off eBay.
     
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