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Straps/Bones for rockered or very splayed skis?

Josh Matta

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jsut strap them closer to the binding.
 

Philpug

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Use the straps at the contact points.
 

Josh Matta

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just put them there in the first place and make them tight the skis still will not move around.

You really would not want to compress the rocker either way.
 
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cantunamunch

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Very happy Volkl Ones
IMG_20170505_131614.jpg
 

raytseng

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youre using standard ski straps right? e.g. swix straps? that have a strip of foam that goes between the bases of the skis before the velcro part? they shouldnt slip or or slide down as the bases grip it, or have some of the foam grip one edge.

if its just a loop on the outside i see your problem. Otherwise a bit :huh: on understanding the problem
 
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cantunamunch

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youre using standard ski straps right? e.g. swix straps? that have a strip of foam that goes between the bases of the skis before the velcro part? they shouldnt slip or or slide down as the bases grip it.

if its just a loop on the outside i see your problem. Otherwise a bit :huh: on understanding the problem


The problem is that the bases can't grip it because when the middle is together it is the only contact point. The bases are too far apart above and below the binding. So putting a regular strap on is completely useless. Above or below the binding it slides down to the binding ; in between the toe and heel the skis twist past each other to make an X shape chewing the edges up in the process.
 
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cantunamunch

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The padded strap above solves the problem with the Volkl ones. It is not flexible enough to solve the problem with the Zags and RTMs. I have an alternate design with some belt leather that works for those.
 

Doug Briggs

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I use these:

20170506_111711.jpg


20170506_111718_Huckleberry Grn.jpg


In combination with the brakes, it makes a reliably stable bundle out of the skis.
 

fullStack

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Not sure how "crafty" you want to get but you could cut out a piece of high density foam after tracing your rocker onto it. Leave maybe 0.25 to 0.5 inches in the thin middle section depending on how dense the foam is. Then glue normal ski straps to the thicker ends that are towards the tip and tail. (Or just use some Voile straps in the same location and forget about arts and crafts.)

Maybe I should have asked the application first... Parking lot schlepping or backcountry bootpacking?
 
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cantunamunch

cantunamunch

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Not sure how "crafty" you want to get but you could cut out a piece of high density foam after tracing your rocker onto it. Leave maybe 0.25 to 0.5 inches in the thin middle section depending on how dense the foam is. Then glue normal ski straps to the thicker ends that are towards the tip and tail. (Or just use some Voile straps in the same location and forget about arts and crafts.)

Did just exactly this above - except I used nylon rivets.

She must have more rocker than @Doug Briggs - that center strap configuration is exactly how she got the chewed up center edges.
 

Doug Briggs

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Did just exactly this above - except I used nylon rivets.

She must have more rocker than @Doug Briggs - that center strap configuration is exactly how she got the chewed up center edges.

That'd be a LOT of rocker. The DPS Lotus 138 is 100% reverse camber.
 

TahoeCharlie

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I use these:

View attachment 23464

View attachment 23465

In combination with the brakes, it makes a reliably stable bundle out of the skis.

My 2cts, but looking at the skis in the photo, why wouldn't placing "regular" Velcro straps just before and just after the bindings work? The binding bases would prevent the straps from sliding any farther down even if there is a camber gap at those points (100% reverse camber). On most ski/binding setups there is about 12/14 inches between these two points; this should be enough distance to prevent the skis from X'ing. especially if you use a wide strap.
 

Doug Briggs

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My 2cts, but looking at the skis in the photo, why wouldn't placing "regular" Velcro straps just before and just after the bindings work? The binding bases would prevent the straps from sliding any farther down even if there is a camber gap at those points (100% reverse camber). On most ski/binding setups there is about 12/14 inches between these two points; this should be enough distance to prevent the skis from X'ing. especially if you use a wide strap.
Two straps of sufficient size would work, but are not necessary.

The skis are 138mm wide at the bindings. I don't have sufficiently long straps for that. Plus with the one strap and the brakes, my skis don't 'X'. Without the strap is a totally different scenario.
 

fullStack

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Did just exactly this above - except I used nylon rivets.

Oh now I see it... I thought those were Junior Mints.

I was thinking one long piece of foam (maybe 2 feet long). Viewed in profile it would have a bit of an hourglass shape.

On they could just go "modified Texas suitcase" using two XXL Voile straps and call it good.
 

hbear

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Two straps. One on the ski somewhere above the toe and one below the heel. Should not twist provided the straps are long enough (easy to find).

As a racing family we certainly don't have a shortage of straps. Every ski of ours uses two (one tip and one tail).
 

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