Rust on edges - removal ?

[Pete in Idaho]

There are some other chemicals out there such as rust check and a few others that convert to rust into something else similar to a Parkerising process or Blueing Process.

http://www.busybeetools.com/products/rust-remover-evaporust-1l.html

They will not remove pitting however will stop rust. So a simple wipe on wipe off process could work. I suspect you may have to lightly touch the side and base with for a quick tune/clean up. I would not worry about pitting unless it is excessive and/or deep (or if they are race skis).

One other concern neutralize the rust or you will be doing this again.

Thanks old school will get some of this and try, can use of other stuff also.

 

[Andy Mink]

Ski at Camelback in PA. If the ice doesn't remove the rust the dirt will.

 

[crgildart]

Give them to Judge Smells and he'll have this guy will take care of it..

 

[Wilhelmson]

I've used a second cut file with the beast followed up with diamond stone. They turn fine and I'm not an expert tuner. Unless you're a true hacker the worst case is you have to drive to get a grind.

 

[Pete in Idaho]

Thanks everyone, used the rust remover but couldn't immerse skis as instructions stated so wet towel applied for an hour. Really don't know if helped. Used the dowel with 150 and 220 silver oxide paper, redid bases, re-tuned edges and base to 2 and 1 degrees andtuned ski's as usual and base prep hot waxed. They will be ready to tune regular hot wax in fall. I used an approx. 1 1/2 in dia dowel and worked really well.

Thanks for tips, I have never seen a pair of skis this rusted.

 

[crgildart]

Add a coat of storage wax to seal them up?

 

[Pete in Idaho]

Razie, got a 1 1/2 dowel and it worked really well, used 150 and 220 grit and took the rust off, did a good job on the base also. Cut the dowel so it overlapped the ski by about 4 in on each side and I could really bear down on the rust, took a awhile but worked surprisingly well.

Thanks for tip and thanks to everyone.

 

[Jacques]

I suspect Jacques has a rust removal video...It may be 2 hours long.


And that place is like lost valley of the dinosaurs. And about as convienient to get to. (Thus they advertise rust removal - as people drag out skis from the early Ptexocene epoch.)

Though I love the bowl, never seen the shop.

I just saw this thread poking around as ski season becomes closer here in Oregon.
I have been wanting to do a video on old skis that have rust etc. I just need to get some skis that are worthy of the task.
I have done and there are a few tricks as to not destroy your diamond stones and files.
In this case we must assume the bases are way dried out too, so that whole renewing thing would be included.
It is a lot of work, but if a pair is in good condition other than that, and the price is right, it can be way worth it to do the work.
If one is handy and has a bench and a few ski tools it can be done. For those getting started that have purchased these things getting some skis on the cheap and fixing them up makes the investment in the bench and tools way worth it in a big way.
Most of the ski I ski are old, but not over used, yet needed work to make them great again. It's no problem when you spend $40.00 or less for what sold for $900.00 5 or twn years ago. Front side skis have not changed that much in ten years anyway.

I will do a video on this subject as soon as I can. Maybe just an old ski that won't even be used, but that would be a shame if i had to do it that way.

Some may have seen this, but this is just one example of skis on the cheap right here.

 

[murphysf]

I just saw this thread poking around as ski season becomes closer here in Oregon.
I have been wanting to do a video on old skis that have rust etc. I just need to get some skis that are worthy of the task.
I have done and there are a few tricks as to not destroy your diamond stones and files.
In this case we must assume the bases are way dried out too, so that whole renewing thing would be included.
It is a lot of work, but if a pair is in good condition other than that, and the price is right, it can be way worth it to do the work.
If one is handy and has a bench and a few ski tools it can be done. For those getting started that have purchased these things getting some skis on the cheap and fixing them up makes the investment in the bench and tools way worth it in a big way.
Most of the ski I ski are old, but not over used, yet needed work to make them great again. It's no problem when you spend $40.00 or less for what sold for $900.00 5 or twn years ago. Front side skis have not changed that much in ten years anyway.

I will do a video on this subject as soon as I can. Maybe just an old ski that won't even be used, but that would be a shame if i had to do it that way.

Some may have seen this, but this is just one example of skis on the cheap right here.

did you ever make a video on this topic?

I just took some 220 wet sandpaper and cleaned the rust off my kids skis side edges, then I took a red gummi stone to them, they look good, was thinking maybe I could go with a grade of paper coarser than 220, is the next one 150 or 110? Would this be ok? If so would I still need to follow the 150 with 220?

 

[PTskier]

Naval Jelly, according to its MSDS, is 10-30% phosphoric acid and up to 1% sulfuric acid. The phosphoric acid converts iron oxide to iron phosphate, a hard black material that inhibits future rust and holds paint well. Not a good solution for rusty ski edges.

I'd give them a regular tune--file, stone, ski. If I left some pits in the steel, OK until the next shop tune. If the rust was just surface color, ski it off.

 

[razie]

If you feel like you need to go lower than 220 on the edge, they probably need new skis

 

[James]

did you ever make a video on this topic?

I just took some 220 wet sandpaper and cleaned the rust off my kids skis side edges, then I took a red gummi stone to them, they look good, was thinking maybe I could go with a grade of paper coarser than 220, is the next one 150 or 110? Would this be ok? If so would I still need to follow the 150 with 220?

If you have a diamond stone, a file, and a guide you should start moving to those. How are you using the sandpaper, just freehand or wrapped around a file?
If no diamond stone use the 220 silicon carbide paper (black stuff) or 320 or 420 around something flat. Like a file. In the guide. Do a few strokes just to take any burrs or hard spots off. Then go to the file. Just the side edge.

If no guide, well your done for now. Freehanding can make a mess of things if you're asking these questions. Yes, Doug Coombs did it etc...

 

[Jacques]

did you ever make a video on this topic?

I just took some 220 wet sandpaper and cleaned the rust off my kids skis side edges, then I took a red gummi stone to them, they look good, was thinking maybe I could go with a grade of paper coarser than 220, is the next one 150 or 110? Would this be ok? If so would I still need to follow the 150 with 220?

No not yet.
After the 220 wet paper, I would then tune the ski edges with a file and polish with stones.
The paper is really good for removing rust and hard steel from the surface. Then the file will work like it should as long as it's in good shape.
Working a really spent edge with a diamond stone can be done, it's just likely to take a lot of life from the stone.
The 220 paper saves the stone and the file.
No need to use a coarser grit. A finer would be fine though. Good luck!

 

[cantunamunch]

Don't store your skis at the beach in San Diego and they won't rust. Stainless rusts in San Diego!


Eric

I was once given a pair of Metrons from MA - the rust had gone in under the ptex.

Good point.
I live in a dry inland climate so probably have gotten away withbit so far
But used to live by the sea and didnt wrap and the edges rusted really badly.
Perhaps ill think about putting a silicon packet in with the skis next time

Rub a bit of soft wax along the edges after skiing.