Random MTB(and some general biking) Tips for newbs

[Josh Matta]

I want this to be thread of things not so obvious to the un initiated. Ill post up my short list and i am sure the less experienced would be curious to hear yours, as well. If you think something is wrong start another thread to discuss so we can keep this one fairly concise.

1. When walking a bike(something that will happen quite frequently while learning to ride remember the brakes still work......no reason to not use them. When going down drag them. When climbing you can use them to anchor your self in with the bike.

2. Also get on and off a bike by swinging your leg over the rear of the bike. Generally you want to stand on your left foot and swing your right foot over, but learning the other side has merrit as well. There is no reason to ever try to step over the top tube(tube between the seat and headset) either getting off or getting on.

3. no underwear ever under cycling shorts that have a liner or chamios

4. If grips slide around the bars, get some lock ons. There is no reason to not use lock on grip that will never slip around.

 

[coskigirl]

Thanks! As an MTB news I really appreciate these kids of tips so I encourage others to add to the list! I already do 2 and know 3 from years of road riding but the others were knew to me.

 

[scott43]

Don't buy a decent bike without buying proper cycling shoes and shorts (with no undies as Josh says..).

Proper fit is more important than the bike all things being equal.

Orange lens glasses do it all.

Super padded wide saddle are usually not very comfortable for more than five minutes. Thin flexible shell saddles are.

 

[Monique]

Don't buy a decent bike without buying proper cycling shoes and shorts (with no undies as Josh says..).

Agreed with all except the shoes part - if you get flat pedals when you're starting out, you may be more comfortable trying things, and you won't need to spend $$$$ on shoes right away. Of course it's your (the buyer's) call.

I got clipless pedals first thing. Fast forward about 15 minutes and one crucial decision not to detour into the house to get gloves. I was just pedaling around the driveway; what could possibly happen? It took two years for the gravel in my palm to dissolve.

So I guess what I'd say is: don't let your friends bully you into EITHER clipless or flats. But do be aware that both are completely legit options.

 

[Monique]

Oh, also, critical knowledge: Despite the misleading name (which exists for Reasons), clipLESS pedals are the ones you clip into.

 

[scott43]

You don't need to spend $5k to get a decent bike and you don't need 5 bikes.

 

[Tom K.]

When re-starting on anything remotely challenging, position your pedal in the "power" position, NOT at the bottom!

We need a separate clipless pedal thread.

 

[scott43]

Not enough speed is as bad as too much speed. Don't be afraid to go a bit faster at times where you feel uncomfortable..the extra momentum may get you over the hump.

 

[UGASkiDawg]

You don't need to spend $5k to get a decent bike and you don't need 5 bikes.

Blasphemy...heretic....burn him

 

[Erik Timmerman]

You don't need to spend $5k to get a decent bike and you don't need 5 bikes.

Yes you do.

 

[Erik Timmerman]

Agreed with all except the shoes part - if you get flat pedals when you're starting out, you may be more comfortable trying things, and you won't need to spend $$$$ on shoes right away. Of course it's your (the buyer's) call.

Even if you are on flats, cycling shoes are a good thing to have.

 

[Monique]

You don't need to spend $5k to get a decent bike and you don't need 5 bikes.

... yet. I mean, you're just starting out!

When re-starting on anything remotely challenging, position your pedal in the "power" position, NOT at the bottom!

I do this by putting my foot under the pedal and bumping the pedal up to about 3 o'clock. Too low, no power. Too high, likely to spin out.

Even if you are on flats, cycling shoes are a good thing to have.

True, but they will be different shoes for flat pedals. You want stiff soles for clipless pedals. For flats, you want grippy soles (5.10 makes great bike shoes).

 

[Monique]

Avoiding shifting under load

It can be very tough on your drivetrain to shift when you're pedaling hard to get up a hill. If you try, you may just find that your chain just won't move to the cog you want. You also may get weird chain jumps, including the chain jumping right off the cogs. You can actually get the chain all locked up in the drivetrain (ie, you won't be able to pedal - and your rear wheel will be frozen). Worst case, you might break the chain. Actually, sometimes, it can be easier to repair a broken chain than to get that dang chain out once it's been sucked up into your derailleur. (Ask me how I know).

So, best case, you have shifted into the necessary gear before you start that big climb. But what if you haven't, and you're having trouble getting into the gear you need?

The answer: you don't have to change gears while on the bike. For example, if you're in a really high (hard) gear and you get stuck on a climb - you can actually get off the bike, move the derailleur using your shifters, then lift the rear wheel off the ground by picking the bike up by the saddle. Give the pedals a few manual cranks. Your bike will shift into the lower (easy) gear and be ready to go. (It takes less time to perform this maneuver than it did for me to describe it.)

Speaking of broken chains, I'm a big fan of the SRAM Powerlink system. There's a gold link in the chain that is designed to pop out without having to use a chain tool. HOWEVER it can seem impossible if you haven't done it recently and don't remember the trick. So if you're going to get that type of chain, practice with it. (Note to self: I need to practice with my chain.)

 

[AmyPJ]

On descents, ride with your pedals parallel to the ground to avoid hitting them on rocks, roots, etc. (Pedals at 9:00 and 3:00.) Stand up off the saddle to allow you to maneuver the bike more freely and add extra shock absorption.

 

[Erik Timmerman]

The front brake is the one that does most of the work.

 

[graham418]

I got clipless pedals first thing. Fast forward about 15 minutes and one crucial decision not to detour into the house to get gloves. I was just pedaling around the driveway; what could possibly happen? It took two years for the gravel in my palm to dissolve.

Get some cycling gloves . Instinct is to put out your hand to break your fall. Protect them

 

[Johnny V.]

Just like skiing trees, don't look at the trees, look at the gap between them...............and LOOK AHEAD.
Anticipate gear changes.
Momentum is your friend.

 

[trailtrimmer]

Super padded wide saddle are usually not very comfortable for more than five minutes. Thin flexible shell saddles are.

One man's Lay Z Boy is another man's ass hatchet.

Saddles are all about fitting ones sit bones. Some bike shops have saddle demo programs, others can even measure sit bones to get you in the right neighborhood. Finding a comfy saddle and what brand/model of shorts work best for you is key to comfort allowing you to put in the miles needed to get better.

As you progress, try to find ride groups that are just slightly faster than you. If you hang with the same folks for years, you'll hit a plateau and never get faster. If you ride with a much faster group, you'll get discouraged.

Also, for a beginner to sport level rider, aside from skills clinics, training programs are a waste of time. Focus on one long, slower, non-heart pounding ride per week that doesn't even have to be singletrack. Then simply go ride and have fun and mix it up for two or three others. Right now it's about time in the saddle, leave the heart rate monitor, garmin, strava crap at home.

 

[Johnny V.]

Practice track stands and figure eights. See how slow you can go while still going forward (without falling over!).

 

[Lauren]

-Learn how to change a tube
-Learn how to fix a broken chain

Side note: A tree branch at the right height can make for a solid in-a-pinch bike stand by hanging your bike on it from the seat.