Hot Waxing Approach

[Core2]

I don't mean to shit on anyone here but you guys make stuff way too complicated sometimes. Hot scrape, drip a little more wax, few passes with the iron and get a nice even layer and let it cool (30-60 mins), then scrape again, brush, done. I've been using Hertel Hot Sauce (20 bucks for a huge block on Amazon) for all conditions except sub 10 degree days for years now and I blow by just about everyone on the hill. If you are into racing or just a skiing perfectionist, ignore everything I just said.

 

[Tom K.]

I don't mean to shit on anyone here but you guys make stuff way too complicated sometimes. Hot scrape, drip a little more wax, few passes with the iron and get a nice even layer and let it cool (30-60 mins), then scrape again, brush, done. I've been using Hertel Hot Sauce (20 bucks for a huge block on Amazon) for all conditions except sub 10 degree days for years now and I blow by just about everyone on the hill. If you are into racing or just a skiing perfectionist, ignore everything I just said.

Ditto. Also not to scheiss on anybody, but the amount and time and complication of this approach is exactly what I'm trying to avoid. Plus, I just like monkeying around with new ideas.

Agree 100% on one wax being fine unless it's ridiculously cold.

But if it's that cold, classic xc is far more enjoyable for me than dh anyhoo.

 

[mdf]

I'm wondering about the proglide for travelling. Traditional, non-perfectionist, hot-waxing is fine for at home, but I'm getting tired of traveling with an iron, finding a place to wax, and sometimes scraping outside:

 

[Yo Momma]

I'm wondering about the proglide for travelling. Traditional, non-perfectionist, hot-waxing is fine for at home, but I'm getting tired of traveling with an iron, finding a place to wax, and sometimes scraping outside:
View attachment 16925

Oooh.....nice pic ... "Me wax......... Me want to stick to shinny new jacket!!!" LOL He's got skills........... staying that clean while scraping!

 

[James]

I'm wondering about the proglide for travelling. Traditional, non-perfectionist, hot-waxing is fine for at home, but I'm getting tired of traveling with an iron, finding a place to wax, and sometimes scraping outside:
View attachment 16925

Great photo! Just can't tell where you are. Out on some hotel porch, lawn outside?

 

[mdf]

On the porch railing outside one of the Elk Country mini-cabins at Jackson Hole.

Or maybe it was a chair back. Details fuzzy.

Oh wait, I remember! Kevin drove to that one and brought a portable tuning bench. It's set up in the parking lot outside the cabin.

 

[Long Hair Hippy]

I have taken the express route. Heat wax bar on the iron then while hot, rub onto base. Then iron slowly with no pressure, no rotation of the iron, lightly with temps that the wax look clear for abotu 4-6" behind the iron. With this method, there is very little excess wax on the ski, so there is no need to scrape. I will take a blue shop towel under the iron then go from tip to tail which will absorb most of the wax then I wil rotobrush once cool. No scraping, very little waste or mess.

I tried this over the weekend. Works like a charm! After waxing 5 pairs, I did not have one wax shaving in my bourbon glass!
Thanks for the tip!

 

[Philpug]

I'm wondering about the proglide for travelling. Traditional, non-perfectionist, hot-waxing is fine for at home, but I'm getting tired of traveling with an iron, finding a place to wax, and sometimes scraping outside:
View attachment 16925

Where can we order 8x10 glossies and are they autographed?

 

[James]

David with Head of Goliath
Caravaggio 1610

Just sayin...

 

[cantunamunch]

now do an Abduction of the Sabine Skis...

 

[Tom K.]

I got the Pro-Glide unit, and it works well. Maybe not quite as simple as advertised, but close.

I've found that you still cannot expect a truly fast ski without scraping and brushing, but now the amount of those two activities required is very, very minimal.

So I think I've found my travelling solution, and even while in my shop, I just like the idea of not putting much heat into the ski.

TIFWIW

 

[Uncle-A]

After reading through this thread it seems clear that we all have some strong opinions on waxing. Using fancy tools and different techniques and they all seem to work for the person using them. I no longer do my own tuning but in between tune up I do my own waxing and have for about 40 years. About 40 years ago I purchased a non-steam clothing iron at a garage sale for about $2.00 and have used it ever since. Using what most of you call the crayon method with iron set on the Silk setting the waxing can be fast, easy and not expensive. People just keep it simple wax, scrape, brush it is not brain surgery. If you are really in a hurry don't even scrape just wax and ski. If you do not want to brush you can try a scuff pad like the 3M pad they work well if you do not over do it and remove too much wax. Recently I got a IR thermometer and I tested the level of degrees on the settings on my iron and this is what I found:
Low setting = 130F & 55C
Rayon = 160F & 71C
Silk = 170F & 77C
Wool = 185F & 85C
That is were I stopped since I use the Silk at 170F and it has worked for me for years without burning the base. I did check heat lose after I ironed the wax on the base of the first ski and it dropped from the 170F to about 155F after doing one ski. I gave it a few minutes to get back up to 170F and worked on the other ski. By the time I finished applying the wax to the second ski I could go back and scrape the first and than brush. Total time of waxing about 25 minutes for the pair. It does not have to be hard or expensive just enjoy doing it yourself.

 

[mdf]

I'm a strong believer in letting the wax tell me if the iron is the right temperature. Unless you have an expensive high-end iron, the temperature dial isn't calibrated anyway. Start low and turn it up gradually until the wax trail stays liquid about 4 inches behind the iron when you move it at a moderate speed (a few to maybe 6 inches per second).
If the wax doesn't melt at all, way too cold. If it smokes, way too hot.

 

[apache]

I have taken the express route. Heat wax bar on the iron then while hot, rub onto base. Then iron slowly with no pressure, no rotation of the iron, lightly with temps that the wax look clear for abotu 4-6" behind the iron. With this method, there is very little excess wax on the ski, so there is no need to scrape. I will take a blue shop towel under the iron then go from tip to tail which will absorb most of the wax then I wil rotobrush once cool. No scraping, very little waste or mess.

Phil,

When you refer to the blue shop towels are you talking about the cloth towels or the paper towels that one gets at the auto parts store?

Thanks!
GG

 

[Philpug]

Phil,

When you refer to the blue shop towels are you talking about the cloth towels or the paper towels that one gets at the auto parts store?

Thanks!
GG

Yeah.

 

[apache]

Yeah.

Which is it? Cloth or paper?

 

[Philpug]

Which is it? Cloth or paper?

Sorry, paper.

 

[apache]

Sorry, paper.

Thanks!!!

 

[Dwight]

Thanks!!!

Pretty much any paper that won't leave residue will work. Even copy paper works great.

 

[Tom K.]

Any chance of somebody posting a very short video of this "towel" method sometime.

It's not like @Philpug is busy with anything right now!

TIA.

Signed,

Chief Hater of Scraping Skis