Anyone have technique for removing a stuck / spinning cuff bolt?

[Ron]

did you try Dw40 yet?

 

[crgildart]

Jaws of life!

 

[pete]

I like the idea of the Dremel cutting a grove for a screwdriver to lock the back in. That and the lube- PB Blaster or 50/50 acetone/ATF .. may wish to check the plastic for resistance to damage . but strategically placed fluid and wiping drips should be fine.

Can toss in the heating on the nut side with an iron and cooling quickly on the screw side,

however if it's seized up, it's likely to still give you issues after repair so you may as well drill out and get a new backing nut.

If a Dremel is a pain, visibility, fear of cutting boot, etc, the epoxy may be sufficient to stop the spinning of the back nut and you may wish to use an epoxy like JB Weld Plastic bonder as it grips better. I suspect it'll just pull loose so you may wish to ruffen up some of the plastic near by .. and if using an IMPACT driver, it may work but again if the nut is seized it will likely spin with the screw side - too, you would want to ensure you have it sufficiently backed on the nut side on a mandrel or such as not to bust any plastic of the boot when whacking way ..

If you can get a new backing nut, one a bit larger to fit the inset better, it likely is long run drilling or cutting it out ... or new nut if getting it apart.

Finally, I suspect this is way down into the boot, a good 10 or so inches? wondering as some clamps exist in woodworking and metal that have a 10-12 inch throat that might reach, letting one clamp the back of the nut, but I think too the front side overlaps/shadows over the nut?

 

[ScotsSkier]

This is looking like a significant amount of work for boots that will likely have a very limited application.

May be best to let the graduate students handle this over the summer.

The bolts are recessed a good deal & vice grips may not be an option. When I took the inside bolt out, there was no lock tight on the screw.

Will keep all posted.

Yeah, that is the problem I ran into. Also too much pressure and the captive t nut starts to turn and rip up the shell. I was doing it on an old pair of the matt black dobermans. found sa couple of the rear bolts were seized the same way... but to be fair they have been sitting there for 8 years since I used them...

 

[Joal]

Vice grips still may be best but the jaws are 3 inches wide. With a little work with an edge grinder you could have yourself a highly specialized tool that you will never use again. For that matter a little work with an edgegrinder on any pliers could work.

 

[cantunamunch]

Hehe, I actually have several of ^those

 

[crgildart]

Vice grips still may be best but the jaws are 3 inches wide. With a little work with an edge grinder you could have yourself a highly specialized tool that you will never use again. For that matter a little work with an edgegrinder on any pliers could work.

View attachment 19714

That is no match for a Kakalaki Red Neck Sledge Hammer!

 

[Dwight]

Vice grips still may be best but the jaws are 3 inches wide. With a little work with an edge grinder you could have yourself a highly specialized tool that you will never use again. For that matter a little work with an edgegrinder on any pliers could work.

View attachment 19714

Interesting, when people say vice grips, I think this.

But @Brian Finch should try this.

 

[WheatKing]

Is it spinning all the way around when you try to loosen it? Doesn't look too bad.. I'd use an electric impact driver on it.. maybe with some needle nose pilers or vicegrips to keep the nut from spinning. normal screwdriver will strip stuff and ruin it.. impact will usually spin out anything. Make sure you're using good bits however.

 

[Uncle-A]

These are what I suggested in Post #19 and they should be able to grip the recessed T-Nut.

But @Brian Finch should try this.

[/QUOTE]

 

[Brian Finch]

It is a real monster. I love all the commitment of trying to get me into this boot!

 

[WheatKing]

Looking at the pic inside the boot of the nut.. there is a bit of space..you may be able to use wrench ground down the outside ( i can explain more if need be) so it fits into the depression a bit better and put it in the on the nut..(not like you would normally,use it like a screwdriver on the nut.) then hit the outside with an impact. that should do it.. forget the vicegrips.. i don't think you'll get them in there. stubby wrench will be your savior.

Heat will just eff things up. And i suspect there would be some threadlocker on there.. you don't want those screws falling out.

They also make 8 point sockets (used for square nuts) but i don't think you'll fit one in there.

 

[crgildart]

Ya, I would be afraid that heating the bolt/nut could risk melting the plastic if it got hot enough to actually crack it loose from the lok tite.

 

[WheatKing]

Make a wrench like this.. grind out the black bits so there is a nice sharp point. put it over the nut like you would a screwdriver/socket, use an impact on the screw, bobs ur uncle.

 

[Brian Finch]

Plan B?

I can get one outside bolt & one inside bolt from either boot & can pull the cuff back! This should let me soften & carve out the hot spots.

 

[Brian Finch]

The tolerances are so minute, there's no hope of getting any plyers in there.



I tried folks!

 

[scott43]

I'm kinda surprised this is on post 36!

 

[crgildart]

Put it back together and go ski on it... will probably POP right off halfway down the first run hahahaha..

I was only half kidding about the hammer. If you can peel the cuff back enough to put the nut on an anvil or solid part of a big vise and place a big screwdriver on the hex nut and get a GOOD WHACK sandwiching the hex bolt and nut between the anvil and the screwdriver it very well might knock the lok tite or whatever is frozen loose and free.

 

[pete]

how about a small pc of tape to cover the bolt back, then epoxy or super glue a metal tab (screwdriver, etc) to the back of the nut?

bent cheap barstock from hardware, scrap pc of metal, shelf bracket with vice grip pliers attached?


then you have leverage on the nut while turning front ... likely just to twist off but ... (don't forget to put tape or dap silicon on the screw opening - as not to allow glue to wick into treads)

 

[mdf]

I would try jamming the tip of a thin screwdriver between the nut and the plastic.... or maybe screw a small screw in between. If it is hard enough to get it in, it might be enough to hold the nut.